KTM Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 60 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
How exactly is this done?
Do I just put my bike on the rear paddock stand and start it and leave it?
No throttle and in neutral?
What actually is the theory and story behind this? Is it in the manual?:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,154 Posts
yes exactly like that, and turn off when 15mins have lapsed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,985 Posts
When you do the 15 minute reset, my dealer suggests removing the fuse for the headlight (number 2 or 3 if my memory serves me well) to prevent the headlight melting due to the build up of heat from the light while the bike is stationary

His explanation of the reset: While the bike is being ridden it is constantly looking at sensors: air temp; engine temp; coolant temp; throttle position; air intake speed; exhaust gas, and many more. As you ride the bike the ECU constantly adjusts the injection and ignition for the optimum running setting.

In some instances, a bike may be started up in completely different conditions to that it had previously been used in, or maybe has had work carried out or the battery has been flat. This can mean that it will not run at it's optimum performance until it has run for some time and got used to the conditions it is now being asked to run in. It will eventually sort itself out while being ridden, but it is quicker and more accurate just to press the button (do not touch the throttle at all) and let the bike warm up and set itself to the conditions. As soon as you start riding it will start to constantly change and recalibrate again.

The dealer reset and 15 minute run does a little more, they always want to be able to see a bike with known values - it makes it far easier to identify if there are any faults. A dealer reset sets the bike back to base settings, the ECU is set up to recognise a set of normal's from all the sensors and anything out of value should show up like a beacon. The dealer resets the ECU and then lets it idle for 15 minutes to let the bike sort it's self out, plug in the diagnostic tool and check to make sure all in within tolerance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,181 Posts
Pearls of wisdom indeed there skinny:D

PLC (276 days to go)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,985 Posts
Not from me mate, from somebody who actually knows what they're talking about, lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks FT - that's the answer I was looking for - SENSIBLE and constructive :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
799 Posts
Not me that Tony he's a MINE of info you know... :)



Shocking that KTM have not given you a job yet FT! ...lol Oh sorry you already work for KTM just don't get paid... lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,985 Posts
:rotflmao: ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
In some instances, a bike may be started up in completely different conditions to that it had previously been used in, or maybe has had work carried out or the battery has been flat. This can mean that it will not run at it's optimum performance until it has run for some time and got used to the conditions it is now being asked to run in. It will eventually sort itself out while being ridden, but it is quicker and more accurate just to press the button (do not touch the throttle at all) and let the bike warm up and set itself to the conditions. As soon as you start riding it will start to constantly change and recalibrate again.
So not something to be done every other week then, just after service work, battery replacement, before or after dyno-work etc?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,985 Posts
I do mine a couple of times a year as the seasons change, and that's it mate. Always worth doing after changing exhaust/air filter/changing fuel maps etc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
So if I have removed the O2 sensors, is there still benefit to the 15 min reset? It would seem not to be, once there is no feedback, but I am not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
That was .my thought as well, just thought I would ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,985 Posts
My earlier post would suggest that the ECU is taking readings from a variety of sensors, not just the O2 sensors. Post...

When you do the 15 minute reset, my dealer suggests removing the fuse for the headlight (number 2 or 3 if my memory serves me well) to prevent the headlight melting due to the build up of heat from the light while the bike is stationary

His explanation of the reset: While the bike is being ridden it is constantly looking at sensors: air temp; engine temp; coolant temp; throttle position; air intake speed; exhaust gas, and many more. As you ride the bike the ECU constantly adjusts the injection and ignition for the optimum running setting.

In some instances, a bike may be started up in completely different conditions to that it had previously been used in, or maybe has had work carried out or the battery has been flat. This can mean that it will not run at it's optimum performance until it has run for some time and got used to the conditions it is now being asked to run in. It will eventually sort itself out while being ridden, but it is quicker and more accurate just to press the button (do not touch the throttle at all) and let the bike warm up and set itself to the conditions. As soon as you start riding it will start to constantly change and recalibrate again.

The dealer reset and 15 minute run does a little more, they always want to be able to see a bike with known values - it makes it far easier to identify if there are any faults. A dealer reset sets the bike back to base settings, the ECU is set up to recognise a set of normal's from all the sensors and anything out of value should show up like a beacon. The dealer resets the ECU and then lets it idle for 15 minutes to let the bike sort it's self out, plug in the diagnostic tool and check to make sure all in within tolerance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
I do mine a couple of times a year as the seasons change, and that's it mate. Always worth doing after changing exhaust/air filter/changing fuel maps etc
Ok mate, thanks for that :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
Yeah, o2 sensors are only part of it, I'd do a 15 min reset after disabling them so you can reset all the fuel trims again, it will still use the air pressures etc so can adjust for different altitudes presumably
 
1 - 20 of 60 Posts
Top