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Brilliant! Yes, with that clear, it should cure the new leak. They need a clean every 10,000 miles in my experience.
 

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Stupid design - put a restrictive valve on a pipe carrying warm fumes just at the point (headstock) where cold air will hit it!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I find it to have a rather high cracking pressure as compared to the engine breather check valves on the older Ducati Paso and later modern ducs with reed valves (all Ducatis upto the Paso don't have a checkvalve but either open or some form of labyrinth). with those they hardly build up pressure, whereas this one, well, apparently it can.

if the check valve was located nearer the engine case then a) you can reach it i.e. more maintenance friendly but b) it will tend to hold more oil mist during cooling off.
if the check valve were much further up then c) you can't access it without removing the tank but d) the amount of mayo should be far less (any fumes go into the airbag but the accumulated condensed oil will remain in the engine because of the long tube.

one of the first mods on Ducati's are to remove the hose from the engine breather to the airbox and put on a moped air filter (or K&N pod filter). no more mayo but you do get automatic engine and subframe conservation :)
 

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Although in winter you may also get mayo as there needs to be some positive draw on these pipes (in my experience any way)

The removal of the valve in its entirety on the 990 adv engine has an impact on the vaccum in the oil tank for some reason.

When l first got my adv, l noticed that there was a little hiss on removing the oil tank cap when warm.

I thought this was a pressure build up, but in fact it is air being sucked into the oil tank - with the valve removed, no more hiss.

As the hiss was suction, l left the valve in place for fear of upsetting lubrication.

This however does not happen on the 2006 950 sm (although this is only 1 year after the check valve was introduced, so it was an add-on rather than forming an integral part of the system in the later LC8 motors)

I have read of people having to use a k&n type filter on the breather when using a rotweiler air box etc, but that either results in an auto chain lube or need for a catch can ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
the oil tank breather is connected to the front cylinderhead cover, and the only other exit is the breather on the alternator cover (check valve in the suction line to the oil pump).
when running there is overpressure (temperature and blow-by from combustion and displacement by the pistons) but when off and cooling there will be under pressure, probably why you heard suction sissing.

might not make much difference (need to think about this one): what if the engine breather goes to top of the oil tank, and the oil tank breather is with check valve to atmosphere?
only thing I can think of at the mo is that the oil goes slightly more sour due to the blow-by gasses directly in the oil tank; and every wet sump engine has this "issue" too....
 

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..... because with that, a revised oil tank breather with a check valve would still need a positive draw to prevent mayo and you dont want mayo in the oil tank!

Best to leave stock and just add cleaning of the valve to the service schedule (every 5th oil change for me as l change oil every 2000 miles)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
well ship, you tip was golden: today to the office and back (just under 130km round trip) and all is still dry.
cheers mate!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
just to confirm, past week been on the SMT to work and all is still dry, even the sweating alternator wiring gland stopped sweating and the hose connector.

now starting to notice the clutch doesn't fully disengage during shifting with clutch and engine at running temp.
have to keep the clutch pulled in for a second or 2 before I can shift with it feeling like trying to shift gear clutchless whilst still having the throttle on.
is that the oil jet or worn clutch plates?
bike is at 54000km and never been opened (clutch cover screws have never been removed by the looks of it).
 

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Discussion Starter #31
so, took off the sprocket cover and clutch to get to the plug, grinded down the largest fitting screwdriver to loosen the jet but after just 2 attempts the screwdriver jumps over the head so it won't catch.

when I blew some compressed air in I heard the breather valve almost immediately so the jet is not blocked.
is there a way or special tool to remove the jet, its not like there is ample space either...

and another possible oil leak found: the pushrod seal. noticed since I got the bike its always been a bit sweating at the jiffy and after a "fast" ride (higher rpm than usual) there was just a drop of clear liquid. I thought it was from the original clutch slave (as its a notorious item), but then it was same colour as the engine oil when I took off the alternator cover to put liquid gasket on the alternator rubber gland...
 

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It sounds like the oil jet has not been out before (it shouldnt be that stubborn) l use a decent flat blade driver piece, a small extension bar and a small socket to crack it. Once fully loosened, blowing compressed air over the top of the hole will lift the sucker out. I have also used reverse tweezers to pick it out once loosened.

Take a pic with your pgone so you can see what you are trying to undo before doing it blind. I clean mine when doing the vent pipe valve at alternate oil changes.

The clutch pushrod seal might have started to go because of your blocked breather. If its just a drip, just kerp an eye on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I have some dental equipment at home (wife is dentist) which are also really handy for non-dental works, like the scaler tool. excellent to scrape cokes/carbon deposits and remove orange from small places and all those kind of things.
I could use it to get the jet out.

also used a torch to see where what is but there just isn't really space to get anything in there and get a grip.
I'll leave it for now, when its time for service I'll have the dealer look into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I noticed the oil level was below the minimum level but stil in the sight glass (just).
did an oil change with motul 10W50, but what came out I dunno it was much thinner, maybe 5W40...
a full 4L went in including topping up after a few minutes engine running.

there is still a bit sweating from the alternator wiring gland and from the wiring itself (travelling up underneath the insulation).
 
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