KTM Owners Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, new here but bit of a long time lurker from my MX needs. Anyway have recently bought a mint 20hr 2015 200exc, done a couple of hair and hounds on her and have decided she needs a little pampering and would very much like some advice please. Rad guards already bought and fitted after an argument with a tree, new plug, air filter & oil change for starters and going to play with the power valve once I have the jetting sorted.

Jetting

Am having the usual spooge problems at low to mid throttle, what specs are good for this time of year at sea level ? (also see note below)

Pipe + silencer

Well what can I say, a bean can has more inherent strength than the standard pipe. Looking at a FMF fatty as per some comments in other threads, would this give me broad low to top increase ? Any others worth considering ? Also what silencer do you guys recommend with a pipe ?

Head mod

Have heard that this is quite a worthy mod on the 200 but wandering if any members have first hand experience?

Gearing

Mine came with a 13/50 combo and cant complain too much but its my first time on an Enduro so not sure what to expect, I know 14/45 is standard but what do you guys recommend for racing Hare & Hounds?

Suspension

Well lets just say its a bit different to cone valve & trax on a MX bike, these "things" on her are terrible even after tweaking with the adjustments. Is there a simple fix to at least make them a little plusher or should I just send them for a re valve etc ?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated and hopefully we can have a win in the bag by the end of the season, loving this slower paced racing and just wish I had discovered it earlier, rather than dragging a sorry old aging ass around a MX track after young lads with no fear in them yet !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
If you're going to be challenging for overall wins, I'd imagine your demands will be different to most riders here, myself included.

My 200 has been constantly evolving since I bought it new in '09. I have tried a lot of things along the way.

A few of the main points;

Tyres; use a skinny rear. The bike tracks far better with it in. It effectively makes ruts feel wider, cuts tgrough the grease better, and makes the bike feel more eager to change direction.

Pipes; I currently have a Gnarly front pipe in my for more bottom/mid over stock, and really find it works for me as a typical Clubman A rider.
The SXS pipe feels better everywhere than the OE one, and provides more top end power.
I currently use a Powercore 2 silencer. Not much louder than stock, but makes the bike feel smoother, and feels like it pulls stronger all the way through, but really hits hard as it comes on the pipe.

Suspension; I have an MX Tech setup from Andrew Bell and it's ace. Stops all the kick the rear used to have as standard thanks to new shock internals (CLP kit) and a WP PDS shock spring. I still have the front OC forks, but they're much better for a revalve and the support of a properly re-engineered shock.

Head; Giving a tuner the motor and having them cut a head makes the world of difference. Really wakes the bike up, especially in terms of throttle response and snap.

Jetting; I've tried the 99 Honda needle setup and ended up going back to what KTM suggest in their jetting table in the handbook. Starts easy, and pulls stronger and cleaner, doesn't spooge, and still uses it's original 8 year old plug. Run on motorex or Comp 2 at 60:1. Pistons come out like new every 80 hours.
This could be down to the combination of mods, but for me, the KTM settings win every time.

PV; Mine's as per the factory setup. Produces the most linear output and best power according to.my butt dyno.

Gearing; currently at 14/50 which suits my pace. Becomes an issue if I back the pace down as some slower turns I have to abuse it in 2nd, but makes it very useable for the flowing woods stuff i tend to ride. 3rd/4th and using the midrange works great for energy conservation if I keep my corner speed high.
I've also tried 14/48 and 14/52, but have settled where I am.

Going to try 13/48 next so I can add some wheelbase to the bike to gain some high speed stability. (Though this won't be relative to your bike, as it has a slacker steering head angle like a 250/300)
 
  • Like
Reactions: rpm and nickr

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,809 Posts
OEM Tail pipe, freshly packed.
SXS hard parts front pipe (FMF Fatty), better power everywhere and tougher.
38 pilot.
165-168 main.
NECJ needle if not a mentalist and smooth/road background.
Standard needle (N1Ei/W) if a more balls out style.
NECW or NEDW needle if you want more anger but still linear.
13/50 gearing for off road - just slow on road but off it'll still do 75mph, 4th is an excellent gear on this ratio. 14/50 is nice but you may find a weird gap between 2nd & 3rd.
2-3mm between the lines on the PV setting window - google supertrunk setting. Langston setting is horrible on the 200 but great on 125s.
Run the forks level with the top clamp for stability.

Don't just revalve the forks. Get both ends sorted to match. Loads of good people to go to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
Agree with most of the above although I prefer a 140 tyre on rear rather than a skinny one. I run stock gearing have a honda needle and skimmed head which work well. I run the hard parts sxs front pipe. I think the stock, fmf gnarly and fatty and hard parts are all different pipes. Watch checking or changing the oil. Don't use the bolts on the inner clutch cover. I use a pipe cleaner to check the oil level. Enjoy I love my 200!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,809 Posts
Good point on the 140 tyre. I've tried a 120 and it makes the bike nervous and sketchy but it does let it spin up quicker but that might be what makes it feel sketchy. I can see how a 120 will cut through slop but I think it's better on a 125 than a 200.

Using Putoline nano tech gp oil in the gear box makes for very slick changes, no drag and lovely feel at 20 hour intervals. After 100 hours my ally plates had barely any wear even with lots of clutch abuse. Some people like steel plates as it keeps the oil cleaner but it won't pick up the revs as quick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys lots of great advice so far, going to get new chain & 13/50 combo again tomorrow and price up a SXS or fatty pipe. Racing again this Sunday so wont have time to order/fit a pipe or do the jetting. That can be next weeks jobs.

Goodluckmonkey-I think i have portrayed myself in a wrong light, i do have quite a long MX & trials past but have only rode Enduro for 3 races so far and 20hrs of messing about in some woods near where i live. As i have never crossed logs or rocks etc before im in the novice class and starting at the back. Already catching/passing most of the sportsmen and a few clubmen though so going to move up very soon and only looking to win my class not the entire event !

Pindie-Thanks mate, in another thread (cant find it now) you go into quite a bit of detail on the head mod and refer to another forum member who does this work. Care to elaborate one more time for a noob ? Edit: just looked at your after video, your a sick puppy. I recommend deleting your browser history......:rotflmao:

Also who is a good suspension tuner for Enduro work ? I only know MX type tuners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yes i did wander on the oil level. Measured out the required amount as per manual but had to tip it over quite a bit before it came out of the clutch cover bolt hole. Assumed the measured amount was right so left it at that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,809 Posts
I've not done any head mods spergen, I thought about it and came close but abandoned it. It might be someone else's thread I've added to. I've been totally happy with where mine is now- simple answer is I can't use any more power! The power I do have is though is clean and predictable so I'm happy with that. When I did the last piston though I did use a thinner base gasket and the bikes always run a lot better since. It took ages to find the right needle and net combo for the feel I wanted. It all came together putting the oem silencer back on after running an FMF a stealth. It sounded nice but held back the initial tap of power. Works well in slippy woods in winter though.

I just dump oil from the mag bolt when hot. Lean over etc to get worst out. Re fill 600ml of nano cos' she's worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
Spergen, as you'll see from the mix of replies, there are loads of different ways to skin the same cat.
In the same way Euro and US guys set up MX bikes differently, the same goes for cross country bikes too, so what you read online has to be taken within it's own context leading to different conclusions.

Finding what's right for you will be a case of experimenting and objective analysis, as I'm sure your demands will be as different as out responses.

First port of call would be to get the bike on jetting settings as per your jetting table in the handbook, so you have a known starting point.

Turning an hours worth of laps on each of the ignition curves (by disconnecting the plug under the tank) will give you an idea of which way you'll want to go with the motor, as ultimately you need what works best for you over 3 hours, not just for 20 mins.
Wether you want softer power that doesnt tire you out, or something more aggressive to ride like a 125 will be entirely down to your riding style, fitness, and more importantly the type of terrain you'll regularly ride.

Once you know what you want, you can then look at either running alternate jetting settings as per the forum here to smooth it out, and adjust the powervalve accordingly, or you can look at head mods and go for more snap.
Choose an appropriate pipe and silencer combo to complement it, and you're cooking.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pindie

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
On the suspension front, the MX Tech CLP kit and a WP progressive spring is the single best thing you can do for a PDS bike. Rode a friend's XC with the setup and it was amazing, so had to have the same for mine. Loads more traction and it's superb at dealing with square-edge and chop unlike the stock setup.

Ridden modded Open Cartridge forked bikes with setups from Andrew Bell and Leo Cordingley and they were both great with loads of grip and made roots disappear, but both were importantly supported by a good shock setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,046 Posts
I've had the head mod done on my '13 200 and it improved rideability massively. It takes the hit out when it comes on the pipe and gives more torque low down with a linear delivery. However as GLM says, only you know how you want your bike set up.
Suspension - mine was previously valved/sprung and serviced by a well known tuner but that was a while back. Both my bikes are off to Leo next week for the same again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,809 Posts
Do you do your own fork oil Nokkaz? Just changing that alone can make a big difference in feel.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top