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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,
Trying to recommission my friends 660 smc after 2 years standing. It is a 2004 model with Keihin FCR MX-41 carb and an Akrapovic full titanium exhaust. Tank has been drained and carb is stripped and sonic cleaned. The jets in the carb are as follows:

Main jet 170
Idling jet 45
Main air jet 200
Idling air jet 100
Starting jet 85

Jet needle OBEKR with circlip in 4th groove from the top

Having not been able to start the bike, (my right shin has the scars to proove it :eek:) does the jetting seem appropriate? I will reset float height and mixture screw as per specs,
Cheers,
Shauny35 :)
 

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check valve clearances, use the 1/6 of a turn method then try again
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Comfysofa, where or what is the 'knack'??:eek: Put the carb back on the bike last night and tried to start but to no avail. Checked spark at plug, fuel going into cylinder etc.. Checked out kill switch circuit all ok. Will get a new plug today and persevere with it when I get home from work. Any pointers please folks??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cheers Keith :)! I will give the 660 a good ol kicking tonight when I get back home from work. Comfysofa's anecdotes are very, very entertaining :eek:
Doing the usual trawling of the internet has come up with some really funny stories about the 660's, but the kicking it over 5-10 times with decomp first seems the likely candidate .....:burnout:
 

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I loved (and still miss) my 660 so much fun, love the "660 starting problems" threads they make me chuckle and remind me of the first couple of months owning mine, the sweat pouring off my head while cursing "ffs start you bastard" lmao but the pleasure you got once you have the "knack " and my favourite "can I havea go" "if you can start it you can ride it" then stand back and watch them suffer lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, as you can probably guess......it hasn't started yet!:censored: Dug a wee bit deeper and found that the capacitor was only getting 4.5 V when being kicked over, (no battery, just running off generator) I hooked up cap. to 12 V supply and she would still not fire....checked out stop circuit switches and connections, all appear ok (no high resistances). Removed generator cover and found quite a bit of damp in there, cleaned it out and dried with warm air, reset pickup to mag gap to .75mm. Still will not fire...I noticed that the generator cover is rotated to the very end of the slots, with no room to adjust the timing one way. I have had keys on cranks shear on previous bikes, letting the flywheel move on the taper and thus alter the timing, but the mark on the flywheel does line up with the pickup when the engine is at TDC on power stroke...I will check valve clearances tomorrow morning...:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Checked valve clearances this morning and exhausts were ok , intake were both a bit slack. Adjust intake clearances to .15mm. Tried to start her and she would not fire....:confused: Since I have been trying to start the bike it hasn't fired once.......Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!:burnout:
 

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Explain (exactly) how youre trying to start it - not a trick question - its a couple of years since ive had mine but, for me I had to be crackerjack with the starting sequence....im just seeing if your procedure is the same as what I used to do...and....fuel - what are you using - that was also a game changer for me...esso "ouch my wallet stuff" or shell vpower....none of the supermarket shite...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the reply Comfysofa. Basically the starting procedure I use is, fuel on, cold start valve out, decomp. in, kick her over 4-5 times, decomp. released, move kick starter until it clicks, decomp. in, move starter a wee bit, let kick starter go to top and give it the big kick. (and swear alot) I replaced the fuel in the tank and drained the carb, but the fuel I replaced it with did come from our local supermarket forecourt. So, I will do the same again tomorrow but replace it with the pricey stuff- fuel is cheaper atm tho !!! Many thanks for your input :)
 

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No prob - I know how it was for me learning to start it but, when I cracked it I could start it with a pair of flip flops on...for me (from memory)

1. Decomp in
2. Choke out
3. Kick over til you hear the clack.
4. Once you hear it, down just a little, but more crucially that small movement has to have resistance otherwise I knew it wouldn't fire....
5. Big kick.

Pre changing to the good fuel the above would get a fire once every 3 or 4 times....after, every time, plus once running it wouldn't stall whereas with the cheap shite it was prone to stalling...

You've said "cold start valve" I thought that was for hot start only - I never needed to use that hot or cold...also - do you start it stood on it or along side....I never had the weight behind me to stand on it and start - I always had to stand next to it as I could follow through with a hard kick...

The shitter is, when youre learning your always thinking "fuck it - ill get rid of it" and then when you suss the starting you think - "im never getting rid of it....fucking awesome..." id still have mine now had I not written my mates r6 off....
 

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don't forget to twist the throttle once or twice before you kick it over to get some fuel in to the engine, always helps
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cheers fellas, appreciate the advice. I kick it, stood alongside the bike, as I am such a short arse to sit on it and kick it !! Fresh fuel and flip flops it is then :)
 

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sit on the bike with your right foot on a kerb, you can get a better kick if your alittle higher
 
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