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Hi all,

I took the rear wheel out to fit a new tyre and was significantly pissed off by how difficult it is to remove. I can't maneuver the wheel enough to release the rear caliper from its post on the swingarm and so there is no clearance between the rim and and the caliper.

As a result I've ended up with a bunch of scrapes on the rim and the caliper :mad::mad::mad:

There has to be an easier way of doing this. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 

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Yep, thats what I did on my LC4 as well. Just needs to be a little section from the underside of the carrier so you can slot it on the post when the wheel is in. I've never heard of it being a problem on the proper SMC/SM LC4s though. Mine was an enduro version converted to SM so had a narrowe swingarm, but maybe they are all a bit tight.
 

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Maybe slugger has a pic. I can't remember exactly where I cut mine. I think it was maybe underneath the circular cut out bit on the slot that you would usually put over the lug on the swingarm. Only needs to be a small section.
 

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This is a bit more complicated than the bash guard.

Did you undo the caliper carrier pin (under the little rubber gator) with an 11mm or 12mm spanner and remove the caliper?

If not then undo the spindle but don't remove it. Remove the caliper but leave the hose attached, just unclip the hose from the two hose clips attached to the swingarm.

Now pull the spindle out JUST ENOUGH SO THE CHAIN SIDE BLOCK CLEARS THE ADJUSTMENT BOLT. Push the wheel forward and tilt towards the chain side. If the bike is on a jack-up stand stick your foot under the rear wheel to take the weight and pull the spindle out enough so you can slide the caliper carrier forward so it can be removed.
 

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slugger to the rescue ....i've done it both ways
1. cut slot out of calipar and slide it to the slot and pull caliper out way
2. remove allen key and pull caliper out from rubber boot...doing it this way on the smcr

the cut option worked well for racing as makes a wheel change in about 3 mins
 

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Mhhh. It is a fiddle but much easier with the caliper off. It's more about figuring out the direction to waggle the bracket off. Look on the bright side - you've got captive spacers and nice fitting adjuster blocks - you can't have everything.
Two ways you can look at it without cutting lumps out of your brake mounting - if you're going to shread tyres and be changing them regularly: you'll get used to it and get quicker at it - if you're not going through tyres: who cares it's a fiddle once every two years :eek:
 

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slugger to the rescue ....i've done it both ways
1. cut slot out of calipar and slide it to the slot and pull caliper out way
2. remove allen key and pull caliper out from rubber boot...doing it this way on the smcr

the cut option worked well for racing as makes a wheel change in about 3 mins
Nice air!
 
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