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Discussion Starter #1
I adjust my chain using the method of fully compressing the suspension and getting about an inch up / down travel at mid point of lower chain.
I just compared how this looks using the manual's recommended method, which is to push the lower chain up from below between the end of the rubber on swingarm and rear sprocket, to give a recommended 7mm gap between chain and swingarm.
My check method gives a 15-20mm gap using the manual's method.
Could someone with a reasonably new well-adjusted new-ish chain see what gap they get using the manual's chain check method? I'm worried I may be over-tightening it.
Thanks
 

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you'll know if you overtighten it as you can hear the chain moving much more. slightly loose is better than too tight (in this case)
 

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How would you have the bike when measuring the 7mm gap between chain and swingarm?
Bike standing upright, bike leaning on stand, rider sitting on bike or with bike raised and rear wheel hanging with no weight compressing shock?
 

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How would you have the bike when measuring the 7mm gap between chain and swingarm?
Bike standing upright, bike leaning on stand, rider sitting on bike or with bike raised and rear wheel hanging with no weight compressing shock?
"Place the motorcycle on the side stand. Switch the transmission to neutral and push the chain up. The distance between the chain and swing arm should be 7mm (0.3 in) when the upper part of the chain is tensioned." Quoted from the owners manual.
 

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"Place the motorcycle on the side stand. Switch the transmission to neutral and push the chain up. The distance between the chain and swing arm should be 7mm (0.3 in) when the upper part of the chain is tensioned." Quoted from the owners manual.
which is quite tricky when your sat on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks folks.
I've loosened the chain to give around 7 mm gap according to the manual's method of tension checking.

BTW this was the first time I'd needed to adjust the chain in about 10 months and 6K miles, since I put a new chain on, and the chain adjuster bolts had pretty much seized. With regular WD40 application and working the bolts I un-seized them over the course of a few days. I then took off the back wheel and completely removed both bolts before coating them in copperslip and replacing.

I'd advise anyone who hasn't adjusted their chain in a while to check their adjuster bolts for seizure; as several threads have reported this is a common problem and can be a nightmare to resolve if they seize completely.
No water came out of my swingarm though when I removed the bolts, and I haven't done the "drill drain holes in bottom of swingarm" procedure. May still do it one day.
 
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