KTM Owners Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I'm after some advice or ridicule, whichever you fancy! Gotta a 990 SMR, its been stood ,but on the optimate for six months, in a heated dry garage. Went to start it , no dash lights, or needle sweep, only immobiliser and dash backlight came on. it starts fine. Took headlight Etc off, checked all connectors and sprayed with ACF50, checked fuses. Multimeters are above my paygrade! So I'm stuck, is there anything I've missed? Or is the dash goosed, I've read that this is a common fault. Thanks in advance
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,067 Posts
The initial thing to mind is that while it starts, maybe the battery is on its way out. Seems weird in my own mind as dash takes obviously less juice than starting it, but...

I always only get 3-5 years out of a KTM battery; regardless of how I treat it/charge it.

I am not sure ACF50 is that conductive? Better using a dielectric grease? I use "corrosion block" grease which is made by ACF50...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The initial thing to mind is that while it starts, maybe the battery is on its way out. Seems weird in my own mind as dash takes obviously less juice than starting it, but...

I always only get 3-5 years out of a KTM battery; regardless of how I treat it/charge it.

I am not sure ACF50 is that conductive? Better using a dielectric grease? I use "corrosion block" grease which is made by ACF50...
I did wonder about the battery, but it’s under a year old, and it started first touch of the button, I’ll leave it a day or two, see if it looses power when it’s off the charger, and I’ll look for a better contact cleaner . Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
@bigkuri, I don't want to appear to be a dick, but "dielectric" actually means capable of withstanding charge without conduction... or in other words, a dielectric grease is an INSULATOR. It's typically used to prevent water ingress to a connector without affecting its function, not to improve the conductivity of the contacts. Use contact cleaner and scrub the contacts with a glassfibre brush if you can get access, wash out with more contact cleaner, then smear the grease everywhere except the contacts before reassembling.

@Karlo, this is not what you want to hear if you're unhappy dealing with a multimeter, but your speedo has likely suffered a little internal corrosion. See here: Speedo corrosion fix

An autoelectrician will be able to help, if not, send me a PM and I'll see what I can do for you. The alternative is simply replacing the speedo with another. Not cheap, and as your bike has an immobiliser, it'll open a can of worms which may need the help of a KTM dealer to fix. Hopefully you have the red key, otherwise they may claim it cannot be fixed... which is bollocks of course, and what they really mean is "we don't have the staff or time to spend on your difficult problem when we could be doing routine servicing, raking it in with very little effort". I'm sure someone on the forum will be able to point you at a sympathetic dealer.

Your battery is definitely OK if it can handle the starter load, so forget that. Worth checking out the performance of the regulator though, as there have been incidences of damaged speedos from overvoltage. Sadly you'll need a multimeter for that too...

Cheers... Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Tinwelp,I’ve seen a few posts online about the circuit board burning out, I was hoping I’d missed something more straight forward! I upgraded the regulator when I bought the bike. I’ll get some contact cleaner, give that a go, to be honest though I found no corrosion on any of the pins when I opened them up. I’ll report back. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
So all Ive been doing is waterproofing the connectors eh.
Indeed, but that's not a bad thing. Try to keep if off the contacts if you can though. It's extremely unlikely to cause issues, but there is a potential for the contact failing to scrape the grease off when it's being mated. It's better to rely on the oil that's in the contact cleaner.
Cheers... Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Evening all, quick update, all connections cleaned, there’s power to the dash, checked with multimeter. I took the dash to a local electronic repair specialist, along with a YouTube vid of how to take them apart. They found no water damage or anything burnt out on the circuit board, as far as they could see. I found a company on the web who reckon they can test and repair most dashboards. They are called Autotronics, anyone had any dealings with them? Thanks
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top