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See if the owner has anything like the original toolkit etc. Easy to be shown it and then leave behind in the excitement. If you get it then it’s just added niceness when you eventually sell on.

I’ve no idea what fork they had on those years? OC or CC? Take a snap of the fork caps and post up. Both of those fork types can be really really good.
 

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Should be OC forks on that one.

Not to put you off but this is on fuck book at the moment:

Ktm 300 exc
2017 model last off the carb exc counter balance engine
Runs & rides as it should
Road registered
Full logbook v5 1 previous owner
Mot till 18th November
Hpi clear
Owned the bike since November 2020
Ktm folder with Manuals steering lock keys
179 hours piston changed at 160 hours
Just changed gear box oil & coolant
Forks seals just been done by gbmx
Recent plastics & graphics
Acerbis Led head light
Acerbis engine covers
Axp sump guard
Exhaust guard
Fan kit
Disc guards
Hand guards
Exhaust flange guard
Pro circuit silencer
Renthal srs o ring chain
Swing arm guards
Jd jetting kit
Jd jet block gasket done
Heavy duty tube in front
Mousse in rear wheel
New rear tyre
New discs front & rear
New front pads
New throttle cable
Ready to ride
No time wasters
£4850 no swapz px / cash sale only
No test rides without cash in my hand or in bank
 

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If you went with that 17, I have a Keihin 36mm carb, cable and throttle for sale. This allows you then to tap into a vast knowledge pool of KTM jetting specs from mild to wild.
 

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These bikes are a bit of nightmare to buy used as you never really know the Hours / History, and an hour with a good rider thrashing it in a race is a different proposition to me bumbling along lanes at <50% max revs / throttle all day long.

You can buy ancient and cheap - leaving lots of money to fix, but you end up buying a £3k bike and spending £2k to still have a £3k bike....

...Or buy new and kiss good bye to £2k in the first 5 minutes.

Everything else is on a sliding scale between the two, obviously with used you can get lucky and pickup a bike that needs little immediately, but regardless of 2 years old or 10 years old your some way into the lifecycle of part wear, but I assume even with new it still aint long until your needing to replace chains / sprockets / bearings / seals and anything you bend. My main concern with old bikes would be parts supply.

This bike looks like a bloody good gamble as used Enduro bikes go, especially if you can fling a spanner around with ease....

...The so does the one above - unless unlucky either will probably work out roughly the same to maintain over a period, with a bit less on the newer bike - but it will also depreciate a bit faster as the one you are looking at has about bottomed out value wise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
sorry about the photo dump, just shared everything I had.

few things, there was no paperwork for the rebuild, in fact no paperwork really at all, he just said it looks like it’s been apart so presume it had been done (I know what your going to say and I’m like erm, ok) and couldn’t start it as fuel lines are off it for some reason, to stop leaks or something.

he said there was a crank seal leak and he replaced the seal himself etc

so couldn’t start it, he said I can start it when I come back to collect it, I think he is just worried it’s going to get nicked tbh

there are no indicators, daytime MOT only it previously had.

looks like new exhaust, genuine KTM in 2016? (date stamp?)

overall I like it, worst case it needs a top end rebuild from what I can see.

thoughts?

didn’t realise they had hydraulic clutch on these?
 

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Whip the pipe off. Look at the piston through the zorst port. Is it worn? If the crank seal was done as a bodge then the bottom end could be on its way out. You really need to see this machine running or get it for half the money. The pictures and tales seem like someone could be fitting a few new parts to camouflage a right old can of worms.
 

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When you go back ask if you can take the fly wheel cover off it’s only 2min job grab hold of the fly wheel to see if it has any movement up/down & in/out if there is any movement it’s full rebuild time if the crank seal has been changed that could indicate bearings are worn but looking at the pics it look a tidy bike.
 

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Last one l did included doing the nikasil and getting the crank balanced as well as new piston, crank kit, bearings, gaskets and reeds. If memory serves, it was about £700 in parts and machine shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
That 300 is looking a better bet from what l can see. Something not quite right about this current bike.
I personally think if I’m going to spend £5k on a bike which might still need £500 maybe more chucking at it, then it’s getting up there and I would just try and get a brand new one and avoid the bullshit of buying second hand.

my heart loved the bike today, got a decent vibe from it for the price, just don’t know if I have to spend £1500 say on its worth it.

would sooner loose £3-4k a every few years by having a new bike every few years than trying to keep an old one going for £2k a year haha

I don’t think the old bloke is going to let me strip the bike, so might have to pass on it, someone will turn up and give him £3k without thinking twice.
 

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Personally I won't buy second hand but I think this bike looks in very good nick for the age and maybe I'm missing something but those pictures make it look very tidy.

Get it started and nice and warm and listen to the engine, you obviously know what you're looking for. If there's nothing dodgy when it's running then buy it.

My 2014 with 265 hours is much more ropey than that but it still rides and runs nice. I'm thinking a bottom end between 300-350 hours maybe. They are solid bikes.

You won't spend 2k keeping it running for most of the life of the bike, let alone every year.

Full rebuild for a grand and you've basically got a new bike.
 
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