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Evening all, just been setting the sag using a WP spanner and it has made a right mess of the adjuster, I’m not ham fisted either. Typical plastic KTM sh#te. Anyone fitted an aftermarket one, any recommendations?. Cheers
 

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I’ve got a WP (probs unbranded xtrig) one on my shock, adjust it with an 8mm socket. It’s a handy bit of kit.

 

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Likewise, have an XTrig one - real handy for changing pre load (for sand) Boring using a socket - we use a slow turning cordless drill. The reason the collars are plastic is KTM found out not many people touch them unless they are changing a spring or getting their once every 5 years service lol
 

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Ha! Aye.... if you’re swapping springs don’t wind it on with a socket, you’ll be there a while.
 

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X trig is a bit overkill on PDS, you can do it by hand as there’s so much room. They’re only worth it on linkage bikes in my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
X trig is a bit overkill on PDS, you can do it by hand as there’s so much room. They’re only worth it on linkage bikes in my experience.
I tried to turn it by hand but couldn’t. Apparently it’s pretty simple to fit a new adjuster so might just fit a new one.
 

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I'm going to get one, on the 690 its impossible to adjust it without removing the shock
 

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Easiest way by hand on pds is go in where the pipe mid section is with your right hand, left comes in past the mud flap thing. With the locking bolt loose grab either side of the spring and collar. If stiff, lock your arms and with them straight use your shoulders and back to shift it. Sometimes needs a wee jiggle and then your off.

Linkage is a royal pita as you need to slowly lever it round. Big screwdriver, blob of duct tape stops any metal contact with the frame causing damage as you lever it round. Don’t be tempted on hitting it like you can on real suspension. It’ll split. Then you are screwed.
 
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Likewise, have an XTrig one - real handy for changing pre load (for sand) Boring using a socket - we use a slow turning cordless drill. The reason the collars are plastic is KTM found out not many people touch them unless they are changing a spring or getting their once every 5 years service lol
Do you increase pre load on sand ?

To make suspension stiffer so it doesn't sink into sand?
 

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It’ll sink into sand regardless. What you can do though to maintain a slack geometry to prevent the front overloading and digging in is to reduce rear pre load and increase fork pre load. The bikes then sort of dragging its ass but the front won’t dig in as bad and stop you. Hard to turn though.
 

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Why not increase both front and rear re load ?
So that you're riding slightly higher/stiffer.

It'll make landings a bit harder but straights will be easier/smoother.
 

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IME, you sink in sand if you chop the throttle. Just keep it pinned. Momentum.
 

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Why not increase both front and rear re load ?
So that you're riding slightly higher/stiffer.

It'll make landings a bit harder but straights will be easier/smoother.
What Pindie said... think Bob was referring to taking a little out to shift the weight balance back as well. I prefer to set it where it should be and sit back, if you’re running tighter sand stuff it doesn’t turn as well.

You do want to raise the front preload though and add more compression front and rear to stiffen the bike up, lifts the front keeping it light and helps you stay on top of the sand. Extra preload gives a little extra support also for the inevitable surprise drops.
 

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Spot on Miner - we work on the adage hard for soft and vice versa. We loosen the preload on rear and drop yokes down the forks for sand. As Ship says, keep the throttle on, which is fine for 20 minute sand motos when you're fit lol. Hard work regardless of settings round Tain track, which by miles is the best sand track in the UK.
 
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