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Bar position.

10K views 36 replies 16 participants last post by  InfiniteCharlie  
#1 ·
Anyone moved their bars on the mounting holes.

Manual just says forward holes for track and that’s how mine came.

Any more comfort on the rear holes?


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#6 ·
All the mk1 bikes came in the rear position. All the mk2 bikes are in the most forward position, I cant help but think this was a quick fix for ktm to make the bike more stable under power.

On my mk1 I moved the bars forward, it adds more weight to the front and combined with cranking up the preload on the rear makes a huge difference.

To much squat and rider weight to far back makes for a light front end when opening the throttle out of bends.
 
#11 ·
Knapper, I've recently fitted a Mupo steering damper. Had a moment last year going through a left right on the gas. Slapped so bad all I could do was lever it in early for the right and pray. F shat my pants.
With the Mupo. I notice the difference just riding in a straight line on bumpy roads. I did toy with changing the oil in the standard damper. But that's for cheapskates.
Was told you can leave them on the bottom setting as they're progressive. Maybe on track, I've put mine at 7 clicks out to start and cant feel resistance pushing around the garage. I have a feeling it'll be like an oberon slave. You just forget about it it's that good.
 
#12 ·
Cool. Which one was it and how much?

I asked the bloke who sets up my suspension once about refurbing an OE damper and he said it's rarely worth the bother. He can't guarantee the components or the quality and some are just throw away and not designed to be worked on. He said he's taken factory fitted dampers apart before and found they didn't even have a plunger in them, just a blank rod moving in oil doing absolutely fuck all.
Buy a proper one and buy once was his advice. He rates all things Mupo too, by the way.

I like the idea of a progressive unit. Nice to keep the low-speed house fly lightness of the SDR. I'm guessing you don't get much change out of £500 though...
 
#15 ·
Yes please post up some info Charlie. Also does it mount same place as stock?

Damper is def my next buy.

Just had a sneaky hour on the 690, first ride of the year and had a sharp reminder of how important they are after a properly choppy landing. I have one of these Scott’s dampers on it, easy to adjust on the fly and has high speed and low speed dampening adjustment, and sweep adjustment. Saved me countless times from a big slapper and massively smooths out the ride.

Not sure if they do a mounting bracket for the Sdr, will have a look tonight.

What everyone else is running would be good to hear about too.

Remember the first damper I bought, for my 03 r6, a second hand Ohlins one. Absolutely transformed the ride....Sdr would be a much better bike for a good one, front end is mega twitchy.
 

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#17 ·
Knapper and Andy
Rottweiler produce a fixing bracket for the Scott's damper. That would be the No1 damper. If only it was black. Adjustable on the fly.
Hyperpro produce a reactive damper which has good reports.
I went for the Mupo S01. Direct from Suspension - Mupo Suspension - UK Exclusive Distributors
They had a sale on in Feb, 20% off. But prices have also gone up since then.
Fits in the same position as stock. I've adjusted my steering lock stops slightly as I have an evotech rad guard and it was just touching it.
Dave from Mupo said after I asked about settings. "I run mine off. They work on vds (velocity dependant strategy) so slow high speed oscillation". Less can be more. . . I just laughed to myself nervously.

Shroppie
Not even to talk out of
:rotflmao:
 
#18 ·
Knapper and Andy
Rottweiler produce a fixing bracket for the Scott's damper. That would be the No1 damper. If only it was black. Adjustable on the fly.
Hyperpro produce a reactive damper which has good reports.
I went for the Mupo S01. Direct from Suspension - Mupo Suspension - UK Exclusive Distributors
They had a sale on in Feb, 20% off. But prices have also gone up since then.
Fits in the same position as stock. I've adjusted my steering lock stops slightly as I have an evotech rad guard and it was just touching it.

Shroppie
Not even to talk out of
<img src="http://www.ktmforum.co.uk/images/smilies/rotflmao.gif" border="0" alt="" title="rotflmao" class="inlineimg" />

Good one cheers, just had a look. £500 give or take with a modified ignition cover, adjuster knob and security bolts. Plus the import charges and postage obviously. Pricey but a class bit of kit.

Agree, they really need to produce an anodised black one! They are small and neat looking though, maybe a little bit of gold on an sdr wouldn’t be too bad....I might just rest my 690 one on it to have a look....
 
#21 ·
Do you need to remove the lcd display to move the bars Adz?

Did four hours this eve to Bridlington and back for a fish butty. Me and a pal.

I really need to stop thinking it’s summer already. Was that cold I had to buy a fleece!


Was 16 degrees when we set off. But only 5.5degrees over tops. [emoji3063]




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#32 ·
Spent a little time today setting the bars to my liking.

You’ve got 4 choices by the looks as the risers are reversible. I went for the holes closest to the tank but with the risers forward. So 2nd to most rearward possible.

Messed about with the angle of the bars but ended up back at zero.

Adjusted angle of clutch lever and test rode.

Much more comfy for me. Felt more upright and supetmotoey. Much more wieldy for pushing around underneath you.




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#33 ·
On my Gen 3 I moves the bars back to the rearward position and also turned the stock bar raiser around as that puts the bars even more rearward. Much better position for me. However I still want to raise them a little and bring even closer to me, so will buy a riser kit or some bars like those on the Gen 1.