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Now my 2stroke will not be ridden for some time as for this virus shit, should I drain carb bowl, start her up once a week etc or just leave her sleep? Advice please men.
 

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You should be fine for at least 6 months. All I do is drain the fuel from the tank, as fuel can go off.
 

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Clean the bike, dry the bike, take the tank off and cover all the electrics in GT85, tank back on, start up to dry off any remaining water. Empty tank / treat with Stabil etc, empty carb. Spray metal with GT85, put on a stand, let air out of forks. Remove battery and charge it / optimate it (thats what l have done anyway :) ...... )
 

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P.S - dont start it up periodically as this will just cause internal condensation.
 

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You could always take it on a steady road ride from time to time. That’s what I plan to do. It’s insured and legal so why not? Especially if the weathers like this. Just put on old tyres and keep it rolling.
 

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For one reason or another I did not start my 300 for about 4 months, I did not drain the carb and when I came to start it the engine did play up for a while, it ran lean on idle an was revving quite high on idle, I reckon that the pilot jet was gummed up with sticky oil. It sorted it's self out after a few minutes but from now on I will drain the carb or at least run the tap off and let the engine use the fuel in the float bowl.
 

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what about FI bikes? will fuel be alright for a few months without any additives in the tank?
 

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I would say not. I always put in the correct dose of stabil - its american stuff ..... they have more ethanol problems than us so this stuff works. Run the treated petrol through the system before storage. Best place to buy is on ebay.

Long term storage and l use aspens fuel.
 

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Clean the bike, dry the bike, take the tank off and cover all the electrics in GT85,......Empty tank / treat with Stabil etc, empty carb. Spray metal with GT85
ACF-50 is a lot better than GT85, especially if applied using compressor so it goes on as a fine mist and works into every nook and crannie, been using it for over a decade and it is fantastic, although XCP is the new kid on the block;


I will probably try XCP next time around, but still have a new 1L bottle of ACF to get through and even with having 4-5 bikes and doing them several times a year it lasts @2 years - so another tip but a Bottle and use a compressor if you have a few bikes, soon save enough money to pay for a compressor.

If not riding the bike the ACF will easily last all winter, my method for the road bikes is to give them a thorough dose of ACF after any big washes, typically I give my bikes an early spring clean (as there will still be salt on the roads) then another good clean and ACF Treatment before setting off on summer tour, then another good clean and protect before putting away for winter. After smaller cleans if the bike gets dirty in between these I just give them a very quick spray, mainly to target the exposed areas the last treatment would of been washed off from.

You can put some on a rag to do wheel rims and spokes, but I find WD40 is easier to use for this purpose.

+1 on fuel stabilizer, very inexpensive to buy a bottle that will treat many full tanks, I also use it in Spring / Autumn where I am not sure when the next ride will be, don't bother during summer when I am riding regularly and burning the fuel.

For the Eunduro I only ever use premium fuels as they have less ethanol and still put a bit of the stabilizer in if it will be sat for a few weeks, if being left any longer I drain the tank 95% (chuck it into commuter bike) and then refill for next outing.

Personally I am not sure if leaving fuel system totally dry is better or worse? But if fuel tap off carbs eventually dry out anyway.
 

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XCP stuff is good - l use their chain lube.

Re. Electrics ....... l use ACF50 grease on the connectors - the GT85 is used just to top up overall protection and to chase out any water. Using GT85 with the red straw works as a brilliant 'pressure washer' for cleaning hard to reach bits that you dont want to mash up with a presdure washer.

ACF50 is also good for treating the stator area on a 2 stroke if you havent converted to the 'wet mod' ....... amazing how much condensation you can get in there (maybe more applicable to trials bikes)
 

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I don’t know why but my bikes never seem to like the fuel turned off between use? Turn it off during the week and when I turn it back on the carb sticks and it pisses fuel. Very annoying. Leave it on and this never happens. My trials bikes the opposite. That needs turning off between use.
 

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My FE 350 is weird on starting, if you just start cranking it can take ages, if you hit the starter for about 2 seconds, wait a couple of seconds and hit the button again it fires right away.

Using the "Choke" lever is also a mistake as even when it is only about 7-8c it starts easily without it, and if you use it then it screams away on startup.

Had left it for about 9-10 weeks and it started as explained 1st (2nd?) time / no choke on a cold early March morning.

At least with the lock-down it is staying clean, fitted all new bodywork and gave it a real good clean after its last run late December, fitted a few new bolts as some were a bit manky, was thinking it would be a shame to ride it and get it dirty....

...should of been more careful what I wished for!
 

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Is it a lithium battery? I have one on the ADV and it needs to be 'woken up' by turning on ignition and leaving it for a while before trying to start it. Odd batteries once they have been left for a bit
 
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