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KTM 950 SMR 2008
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
KTM 950 SMR 2008

Having problems starting my bike.

When starting it sounds as if the battery is flat but it is not.

I bought a new lithium battery and still have the problems.

After trying to start the bike a few times the starter relay gets really hot and it has burnt out and I had to buy a new one.

I have removed and tested the starter motor and it spins no problem.

I have also removed the stator engine case and replaced the needle bearing on the idle gear (part number 0618253220) as I thought this was possibly worn.

Connecting a battery to the start leads and bypassing the electronics the starter motor turns the engine over.

I am a little lost at what the problem may be.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Charlie thank you for the reply,
Yes I have checked and cleaned the main earth. My next thoughts are to test the Regulator/Rectifier I have seen some tutorials online and I am also going to try another lead acid battery as I saw people have issues with the lithium batteries.
All a bit of a brain twister for me atm :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Roger that I will test it when we get I going. I have just got a battery here so fingers crossed. Thank you
 

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+1 on bad earth, and l would also check all of the associated wiring and chase down any corrosion in connectors and ACF50 them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for your reply.

I have a friend who is handy with a meter and has good battery he came round.

Attached a good battery and tried to start the bike and it just made the starter relay click again like the battery is no good and the relay got hot.

Took battery off and the battery was down to 8v but after less than a minute recovered to 13v

Put a meter across the battery cables with the battery disconnected and it showed continuity, something I believe is should not.

Connected the battery to the starter motor cables only and the bike turned over, good.

I know charlie264 said it would not be the rectifier but for peace of mind we tested it anyway and the rectifier side is good. Current only goes one way and the readings are similar on the 3 diodes. We cannot test the regulator as the bike has not started yet.

Tested the stator wires and they all showed similar readings, good.

We did check the starter motor as well to see if there was a short in it and it shows continuity between the positive connection and the case, the plastic insulation disk looks fine and we know it works as the bike turns over, very confusing.

We did clean the earth points on battery and have removed and refitted the ones fixed to the engine casing by the starter motor and stator.

We are thinking its a short somewhere in the loom now but not 100% sure what the problem may be.

I have ordered another starter relay and starter cables positive and negative in case they are breaking down.

Any other ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Check around the head stock for wire fatigue. Give the ignition switch a good spray. How much continuity between leads with battery off? If you got accessories, alarm etc then there will be some. Take the positive lead off the battery with an Amp meter between....make sure its set to 10 Amps or more and has fuse protection in the meter or it will damage it. Everything off you should only see < 50 milliamps.
 

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I had similar on an RC8, it turned out to be a frayed wire behind the headlight

Have you checked the coil sticks ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank u Charlie. We are on it again today if it don't pour down I will run through ur recommends and let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cheers wazza i will check the light, coil sticks not checked them no not yet I will add it to the list, thank u
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok looks like I have a running bike again :)

We dropped the headlight down as suggested by wazza and checked behind nothing was out of place and all wires and connectors looked in good order.

We took all the relays and diodes out from under the seat and tested them all, relays were clicking to close and diodes only passed current 1 way.

We saw indication of heat damage to a wire and fixed it.

We ran a meter inline as charlie suggested and there was no significant current draw.

Once the bike was running we were able to test the regulator and it too appeared to be working as expected.

So other than checking components and a wire fix there was nothing evidently wrong I can only assume doing that and cleaning everything provided the fix.

Thank you very much for your suggestions and help I can now get a MOT and put a few miles in to see if we truly have cured it.
 
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