That year its almost always the plug cap! They break down very often. Cdi mostly don't fail. Stators do though.

 

I’m with RBJ on the plug cap theory. Cheap to try either way. Kevinyorks always says nip a bit (5mm) off the end of the ht lead so it’s in fresh wire. That’s good advice.

I’ve no idea why RFS eat plug caps? Anyone else know?

 

I’ve tried putting a screw driver down the ht lead and against the block to see if it will spark but that still didn’t work. Would it need the resister in the plug cap to spark? It would be lovely if it was just the spark plug cap!

 

My money is on the stator, if you do go for a new one check out Trail Tec, they might do one for your bike, it will be cheaper and the quality should be better.

 

Checked the resistance on the stator and was reading well. Everything works. Lights, horn, signals. Starter motor turns over it’s literally just getting no spark. I’ve cleaned battery terminals, fully charged battery, cleaned earth strap connection. Put a new starter relay on. Checked all wire resistances and everything’s reading. Cleaned starter button contacts too.

 

Remember all the things you mentioned you checked eg horn battery starter etc is a separate circuit and not part of ignition circuit.

 

The circuit goes: stator-cdi-coil. You’ve said the stator is good and have isolated the ht cap. Have you isolated the kill switch? Have you tested to coil? If both the stator, coil, kill switch, cap are good and the necessary earthing is present then it’s the cdi. To confirm, your ohm’s test result correspond to the manual?

 

How do I isolate the kill switch please?

 

You might want to pull the lhs cover off and check the pick-up hasn't come lose. Ref stator, I had a 250 2t stator read fine but it just didn't work.

 

Took kill switch off from the wiring and Pressed electric start and still no spark.

 

Good, keep it disconnected (it’s a process of illumination). So next is the coil. What does your manual say and your test ohms result are they sweet? Can you confirm the earthing of the stator and coil are good and the connection of all components are clean with no corrosion. Also no cable chaffing around the head stock or up from the stator around perhaps the fuel tank or rad.

guys, I’m working through my way as a process of illumination and if ithis differs from yours please correct/suggest:

 

Here’s the readings:
From stator- Red to green wire pick up coil is 134ohms
Black to red wire source coil is 40.7ohms
Earth to inside plug cap is 1046ohms
From Coil - blue white to earth is 0.5ohms primary winding
Secondary winding is 1046ohms.

any knowledge from those readings?

 

Just checked my notes but bear in mind my bike is a 2013 2 stroke!

Anyway your trigger coil is not far off mine, mine is 125 ohms, same colour wires as yours.

Your power coil (source coil) does differ in resistance, mine is 18-20 ohms, the wires on mine are white and the other is red. After they connect to the four way block they change to Red/white and Black/Red. A good test is to disconnect the CDI, connect your meter across the two wires at either the 4 way block or even better at the connector that goes into the CDI, set it to AC volts that crank the engine, it needs to read 10-15 volts ac.

The HT coil on my bike is fed from the CDI with a white wire, the primary side of my coil is 0.5 ohms, my secondary resistance is loads higher, from the HT lead (no plug cap) to the metal part of the coil my reading is 6.37K ohms.

Maybe your HT coil has an internal short on the secondary side. Check out my f4g packet wiring diagram.

 

Do you know anyone with a similar bike you could swap parts with?
For the coil, you should be able to do a crude basic test by connecting a battery across the primary to try and induce a spark. Connect the negative side and just tap the positive connection momentarily. Hardly laboratory conditions but it should prove if it's completely fecked or not.
Other than that, check for good earths and clean connectors with good continuity between components.