Sorry but didn't say I've got a 1190 2013

 

I’m using muc off all weather chain lube and don’t have any problems. Just don’t use too much and leave it on after applying for a while - overnight is good. Sometimes a little bit of fling onto body parts - which cleans off easily - but never an issue with it getting onto the rear wheel. I guess any of the chain lubes - or waxes - that are on sale would be similar. I use a chain cleaner as well - perhaps every second-third time I apply the lube. I’ve never just used motor oil - for the reasons you mention!!

 

I use either clean left over engine oil, or used engine oil.
If it's in my bikes chain oiler then it's clean oil as I like to see the clean oil in the feed hoses.

I also have a pot of used oil and I use that to both clean the chain and lube it. Often just giving the chain a scrub with used oil and an old tooth brush is all it needs, then I towel off the excess.
Sometimes I clean the chain with WD40 first but not often as it doesn't need it.

Oil fling gets on the rear wheel but not really the tyre, or should I say not enough gets on the tyre to be visible, though it might get on tyre wall. To clean the rear wheel I blast it with WD40 which does get on the rear tyre sometimes but I just wipe it off and it's fine.

A small amount of oil on the rear tyre (like from the chain or cleaning) will not effect grip enough to notice. For enough oil to get on the rear tyre to effect things badly it would likely require something catastrophic to have happened, something like the engine dumping it's oil out the back.

 

Belray at the moment, flings a bit but not too bad. Before that I used Profi Dry Lube for years but had problems getting hold of it last year which is why I changed

 

If it's going all over the wheel/tyre, you are doing it wrong.

First thing I do is put some scrap cardboard on the ground under the chain.

I clean the chain using a bit of cloth with some diesel on it, then wipe clean with a dry cloth.

Then I carefully spray Muc-Off Dry Lube onto the inside of the lower run of the chain, while rotating the wheel backwards. I start with the joining link visible on the rear sprocket and do one slow complete rotation of the chain with the spray going onto the left of the chain rollers, then another on the right of the chain rollers. I also take the opportunity to make sure there are no tight-spots in the chain. When I first fitted the chain, I painted the outside plate of the joining link red. This also helps me to see that the link is intact.

I then leave the bike to stand until the Dry Lube is dry (clue is in the name), and carefully dispose of the card and the cloths.

If you do have to lube the chain immediately before a ride, then Silkolene Racing Chain Lube is the product to use, as it is fling-resistant even when first applied. It's branded as race lube because you can use it between races.

Most of the chain manufacturers actually don't recommend chain lube at all...they say to use a heavy gear oil: an SAE EP90 or similar...the kind of stuff that used to go in Ford Cortina drive axles back in the day.

If you've got a decent chain, then most of the lubrication happens behind the O X or Z rings, the main function of the applied lube is to stop it all going rusty.

Below is my chain. It's done several thousands of miles of road and trail riding in all weathers, and the bike had just done 60 miles on damp country roads when I took the pic.

 

Invest in a PDoiler and use chainsaw oil as it' very low fling and cheap. The PDoiler will give a metered amount onto the chain whilst the ignition is on and is unaffected by temperature like a Scottolier

 

This is good stuff and no mess,,, XCP™ PROTECTION | XCP™ CHAIN LUBRICANT

 

Road bikes - whatever spray lube is on offer, they all seem much of a muchness if used regularly (on a hot chain after a ride)

Offroad bikes - oil can oil from the magic 5l tub that has all the dribs from various oils (can be a mix of chainsaw bar oil, engine oil, 2t oil, atf, you name it)

GT85 / ATF are both great for cleaning chains.

 

I use paraffin for deep cleans when the bike is being washed, front sprocket cover removed and degunked etc. But GT 85 for quick cleaning in between washes. Very good stuff and unlike WD40 it doesn't damage rubber. Highly effective, cheaper than aerosol chain cleaners and acts as a rust inhibitor at the same time.

 

Thanks lads I'll give mine a clean up first as there is visible rust on the oust then lube her up.

 

S-Doc White chain lube is the best I've ever used. Zero fling, never get rust. Clean with paraffin.

 

Good kerosene clean of chain, using cardboard as cover. Gear oil and a brush. Cheap and super affective.

 

I use a Scottoiler and happy with it. 👍

 

Chain saw oil. Yes, I know, you're probably thinking I'm a complete pratt but take a while to think about it. Motorcycle chain lube is only there to essentially lubricate and protect the side plates (the sealed O ring system does the hard work). Putting lube on the rollers merely creates a surface that grit and dust can stick to before grinding into the profile of the sprocket teeth. If you're worried about a wet chain, don't be. Water's one of the finest lubricants going. Ask any ice skater, who moves around on a layer of water, created by pressure between blade and ice, or anyone who has had fun coming down the plumes at a water park. So long as you give the chain a quick once over with WD 40 and a wipe down after a wet ride you'll be fine. BMW have even announced a new chain with a toughened ceramic coating that needs no lube at all.

Motorcycle chain lube has no required minimum performance criteria like engine oil. Hence the confusing variety of lubes. You can get 'wet' lubes, dry waxes, even chain lubes that won't give much protection against water. Motorcycling, much like any hobby industry is constantly looking for ways to sell us stuff we don't really need at prices way higher than the ingredients and manufacturing processes warrant. It's the same mentality that has us paying more for pet foods than we'd spend on our own grub.

Chain saw oil is designed to lubricate the cutting process, protect against the corrosive affect of wet tree saps and to resist extremely high fling forces. This is way more demanding than the job of motorbike chain lube yet costs only a fraction of the price. Apply It sparingly to the side plates with a brush and it does an excellent job. It lasts much longer than motorcycle chain lube and has good water resistance. If you're anal about cleaning your chain it can be easily removed with paraffin (much cheaper and better than expensive chain cleaning solvents) and a brush. I've used chain saw oil on everything from an FJ 1200 to a FireBlade and now on my 1290 SAS. Give it a go, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised and quids in.

Nigel

 

Solid fan of gear oil ep80w/90. Very cheap. Easy to apply with a brush then wipe with a rag. You will notice how quiet it runs when you give the wheel a spin. Ive tried loads of chain lubes and one thing I find they all have in common, they leave an awful build up of crap inside the front sprocket cover, a great grinding paste that eventually comes in contact with the chain. Horrible sticky stuff thats hard to clean off. Hate 'proper' chain lubes, gear oil all the way and anyone that ever tries it never goes back to aerosols.

 

Agreed. I 've also heard good stuff about gear oils. Remember taking the sprocket cover off my 30K mile FJ 1200 when I first got it. Took me an entire morning to get rid of the build up which included large pieces of gravel. Still think chain saw oil does the best job.

Nigel

 

 

GT 85 perplexes me...
It failed a test for corrosion protection pretty quickly, and way before WD40 did.
But my mate uses this on his Africa Twin and it still looks new, maybe that's more a statement about the materials and paint quality of the AT than it is of GT 85.

Here's the test.

BEST corrosion protectants: Do ceramics work?

Huge product test helps keep your bike looking its best

www.bennetts.co.uk

 

Ummmmmm. I have used GT85 since jesus was in shorts and no corrosion problems on any ktms. .......... l literall lather the bike in it after a wash, or a wet ride out when l CBA to clean the bike. I use it because its kind to rubbers/silicones/plastics as well. Buy it by the slab and its cheap as chips.

 

I use ACF50 for corrosion protection. GT85 is a penetrating oil and a water dispersant. It's never going to stand up to specific corrosion inhibitor in a back to back test. But it's vastly better than using nothing and it's very good at cleaning off dirt and road film which can hold salt residue and moisture. I suspect your bikes stay pristine because you look after them properly and clean them regularly, in which case GT85 is more than up to the task. I've met plenty of people who use AFC50 as a substitute for washing, cleaning and proper care, rather than as part of the process. Lazy bastards like that would struggle to keep a bike rust free if they dipped the whole thing in diesel.

I always take GT85 away with me when touring. An Aerosol of heavy sticky ACF50 is a waste of time but for cleaning en route GT85 is excellent.

 

Never found a great lube for road bike chains in 35 years riding.

On the enduro it seems whatever I put on is gone within about the first 30 minutes riding.

 

That's what I thought until I used S100 White lube. Try it.

On enduro or competition dirt bikes that get properly cleaned after each race, chainsaw oil might work well. Not sure I'd want to use it on a road bike. It is extremely sticky and attracts dirt like a magnet.

 

For protection from rust I have used ACF-50 for years, applied with a compressor it gets in everywhere and works really well, might try XCP next time as it looks even better (as it should be as ACF is about 40 years old!) but I have a fairly new 1L bottle of ACF which typically lasts a few years even when applying in what look like huge quantities to 3-4 bikes several times a year.

 

Just don't get it on the brake surfaces!

 

Yeh.. I was also thinking next time I might try the XCP clear coat... but looking at my 1 litre bottle of ACF50, and how little is used each time, I think that bottle might well out live me.

 

I have a Tutoro automatic oiler and use their own oil. It's slightly magnetised to stop fling.

 

I have a Tutoro automatic oiler and use their own oil. It's slightly magnetised to stop fling.

I had to double check todays date to be sure it's not the 1st again.