KTM Owners Forum banner

21 - 33 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,076 Posts
Plus the part traveling around the world... :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
The big problem with Clake...when you wash your bike. Clake one isn't waterproof, and with water inside, the bearings will get rusty and you can trow it in the bin. With rust blocked bearings it will work much worse than a normal cluch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,884 Posts
LOM on a dirtbike will do that to most parts. See my previous post on this thread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
I've had one finger clutch for over 100 hours use and so far so good.

I bought it to break my bad habit of using 2 fingers on the clutch with the normal lever. stock clutch would tire my left hand, especially on braking bumps.

the adjustment is almost limitless so this takes some time to dial in.

if you set it too light on the pull you'll lose too much feel for fast starts and feathering the clutch on hillclimbs for example.

pivot turns and like were made easier with more adjustment to find that biting point.

as someone mentioned water ingress can be a problem. some of the covers only use grease to keep out the water rather than seals or gaskets so go easy with the jet washer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I think I could manage the clutch with just one finger, it’s finding a lever that’s short and the right bend.
nearly all the levers I have seen need two fingers on them or they trap the other finger and you can’t pull the lever enough to disengage the clutch properl.
if that makes sens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,396 Posts
I think I could manage the clutch with just one finger, it’s finding a lever that’s short and the right bend.
nearly all the levers I have seen need two fingers on them or they trap the other finger and you can’t pull the lever enough to disengage the clutch properl.
if that makes sens.
What levers have you been looking at? I've never seen a modern dirtbike clutch that cannot be used with one finger - it's all about adjusting it correctly. The midwest engineering lever is very good at reducing the pull weight. It increases the length of the stroke but that should give good feel anyway. Had about a 30 second go on one and didn't even notice it other than the light lever feel. I'd start there.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
With the stock lever, if I adjust it so that it disengages fully before its trapping my other fingers
its so far away from the bars, I can hardly reach it.
i have some Short RFX levers( I think that’s what they are) But they are only 5mm shorter than the stock lever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,396 Posts
Move MC to the right.
Was just going to say this myself.

The MC should sit so that the start of the bend in the lever touches the grip when pulled in.

I'd stay away from cheap aftermarket stuff and either buy the good brands or something particular like the Midwest. I normally scoff at any sort of silly aftermarket thing but the midwest levers seem to be really good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I have tried moving the MC to the right, this increase the span.
i haven’t seen Midwest levers.
if I can save the cost of a Clake I will.
all good feed back, thanks.
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Top