I'm finding the O rings on the same connector on my 1190 are swelling and causing great difficulty in disconnecting and reconnecting, and really needed replacing every time they were apart. This is using genuine KTM O rings.
Never used to be an issue, so I'm going with ethanol being the problem, so I've switched to a Jiffy-Tite connector hoping it will be better. 'Kin should be better for the cost!

 

Using silicone grease or a wipe of 2t oil will allow the quick connect 0 ring to survive for a long time. I always lube them and thumb the release catch until the female part of the connector is over the 0 ring. Havent nipped one since doing this. There was a seller on Ebay selling them in bags of 10 for a good price.

 

I used silicone grease on my o rings. It helps assembly but didn't help the swelling.

 

Yes , I used silicon lube also. Just need a source for cheap o rings or the dimensions if anyone can help. I did look on ebay but maybe my search terms werent good enough

 

The ebay seller l used before has moved to america - still selling but postage is prohibitive.

 

There is an ebay seller called Carbtec who sells lots of 0 rings for triumph and ducati q.c fittings - surely they are all the same size?

 

Cheers mate, Ive just ordered a 4 pack for 4 quid. Will let you guys know if they work out.

 

Just a side note.. I've recently come across talk of not using silicone grease anywhere that it can get into the exhaust. I was claimed that the silicone buggers up your O2 sensors.
Not sure of it's true or how much would be required but just to be on the safe side I'm gonna be using Vaseline instead on the fuel line O-rings.

 

I have read that about silicone too, but...

A) Hard to imagine that a small trace of silicone upstream of the injector can deposit much on the sensor.

and more importantly

B) I don't have any sensors

 

1 sec ill go try....

 

Perfect fit. Get your orders in

 

which ones as he's sells several?

 

I ordered these brother :

Pardon our interruption...

 

Are you using 99 fuel rather than 95? The cheap stuff has the ethanol, 99 doesn’t. I think you’d be mad to use anything but 99 in any small engine nowadays unless you start using stabilisers in the fuel. Even then I’d be worried. 99 doesn’t seem to cause any issues, certainly not swelling, just less bank balance.

 

I always use the highest octane available usually 99 or 97 however its all e5 which still makes it 5% ethanol. Thats the best thats available on forecourts.

 

I didn’t realise even the good stuff has been molested. 😳

 

Yes its criminal! Biden was even pushing E15 onto the US forecourts. Nothing will run on that.

 

Buy now while stocks last...

Esso:
We currently supply an ethanol-free Synergy Supreme+ 99 unleaded in some parts of the UK. From September 2023 our Synergy Supreme+ 99 will transition to contain up to a maximum of 5% ethanol at all Esso pumps irrespective of which part of the country they are located. The labelling at our pumps will remain as E5 for Synergy Supreme+ 99 unleaded.

 

Damn. STABIL 360 will be my additive of choice for fill ups and Aspens for storage.

Anyone having to renew fuel lines, l have found COHLIN to be best for our rubbish petrol.

Ethanol - hate the stuff.

 

But how much damage does it really do?
I've started draining the float bowl on my DRZ when I'm going to put it away for longer than a few weeks. When I took the drain plug out earlier this year it had a green coating on it which wiped off with a rag.. this same coating will no doubt be all over the carb internals.

 

I either use stabil or aspens now, so my issues have been in relation to vehicles which are not in my ownership and havent been used for a couple of years.

Fuel lines have perished and carb internal heavily corroded and plastic/rubber gone brittle.

My 950 sm used to need a spring sort out, even with running carbs dry.

So ime, isdues have increased with ethanol content.

 

The usa has worse problems due to increased ethanol content. I think that they have up to E85 now 😬

 

There's a similar thread raging on thumpertalk but the yanks are addicted to fuel stablisers, even though several youtube channels have shown most do very little (or nothing).

Points raised so far are that running a carb dry doesn't empty it, so actually drain it if you want that.
Leaving a carb dry is bad for seals as they "dry out" so leave fuel in the bowl and the tap turned on.
So I'm unsure what the best thing is.

Luckily I only have one carbed bike to worry about. Maybe I should drain the carb but then refill it with home washed E10 for storage.
Maybe I should fill it with diesel instead, or paraffin, or washed E10 with some 2 stroke oil in it.

 

2t small engines ime do not suffer over 1 winter ...... 2t oil obvs helps here.

So maybe run some 50:1 through the drizzle and empty carb?

Seals dry out?! ........ noooo! They are not cork or real rubber anymore.

Stabil is only one that is any good for corrosion/hygroscopic issues according to F9.

 

Seals dry out?! ........ noooo! They are not cork or real rubber anymore.

Yeh, it's not literally drying out but there is some absorption happening and that causes some seals to grow. If these seals are then left dry the absorbed chemical will gradually leave the seal again and the seal will then shrink. It's this action that one poster was claiming is known to weaken seals - "FACT".

I dunno.. it's just a load of opinions really, based on nothing much more than anecdotal evidence.
I suspect that there is a best practise somewhere in this, one that doesn't require the use of stabilizing additives (as long as your bike doesn't have a steel fuel tank). Like washed E10 with a splash of 2 smoke oil (50:1) for long term storage. If your bike does have a steel fuel tank then it's gonna need to be filled for storage.. so you're going to have to address the ethanol issue as that tank full of fuel will be pulling moisture.

I wonder if this is an issue for modern fuel injected bikes (with steel fuel tanks)..
Also I wonder what KTM now suggest for storage as they have moved to using steel fuel tanks... lets have a look at the Duke 790 owners manual.

What a surprise... they suggest filling the tank and using Motorex fuel stabilizer.

 

If l had any steel tanked bikes (without integral fuel pumps etc), l would empty them, remove from bike and slosh some oil around for over wintering.

Ah, mrs ships xlasaurus fits that description. ........ after cleaning the tank as part of its recent reserection, l dont want that faff again (white vinegar soak and nuts and washers blasting etc)

Small 2t carbed stuff (inc trial bike) seems ok with 'decent' fuel, tpi doesnt suffer, f.i 4t doesnt suffer, but plastic tanked carbed 4t will continue with regular use of stabil 360 and wintering with aspens or de-ethanol'd E5.

My 950 sm gets all grumpy in the spring if not fussed over.

As well as stabil, 30ml of seafoam to a tank is another stabiliser that seems to work.

I think the septics get all excited because they are septics and because they have higher levels of ethanol than us. For now.

 

The exact size of this O ring (KTM p/n 58507012000) is : 1.78mm CS x 7.65mm ID , ShA 70.

As with all O rings it really should be replaced every time you disconnect the coupler, but 'hey' if it's undamaged & still works . . . . !

Carbtec is now selling these in packs of 10 on ebay item no' 276466126786 but if you're reading this & a heavy user of this O ring then message Carbtec through ebay & he will do you a deal.