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Discussion Starter #1
Did an oil change on my 'new to me' 525 EXC today, and was delighted that the drain plug was OK...but the screen plug for the big screen that goes in the underside of the crankcase was not. The last person to have it out of there had mangled it up pretty badly...then reinstalled it! I tried to remove it using an allen bit in a 1/2 in drive, having first hit it with freeze spray and given the bit several healthy clouts as recommended by KTM, but to no avail.

GRRRR!

All the other screens and filters were happily free of debris, so I just ignored it, reinstalled new paper filters and refilled with oil.

However, for peace of mind, I would like to get it out next time I change the oil.

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who has faced the same issue as to what their successful solution was.

I have left-hand drill bits and screw extractors, but would first like to try the Torx bit hammered in solution. Has anyone succeeded with this technique, what size Torx did you use, and would it help to get the engine hot first?

Over to you!
 

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Not quite the same, but similar enough. I had a mangled 13mm hex head go on a 2008-11 drain plug. I tacked on a socket with a mig and got it out. You could tack your allen bit and do the same.
 

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Buy a cheap Allen/Torx that you can hammer in there and gloop chemical metal around it (or weld if possible). Wait a good while so it’s fully cured and try again. You might be able to even tap it round with a cold chisel but I don’t think there’s room. Those plugs do stick in tight. A torque wrench is very useful to ensure it doesn’t happen again.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I would not be surprised if the previous owner has fucked up the thread & has threadlocked the bolt in the joys of owning a used bike when the last owner was a twat.
It's a possibility, for sure. I'm quite good with helicoils if needs be.
 

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I doubt it will be cross threaded. The threads are few (really short drain plug ) and huge, ie really coarse. The problem with this plug is you have to do it by the book - when we had our 450, I got my son to hold the allen socket in while I hit the ratchet handle with a hammer. Also, when you torque it up it's amazing how quickly the torque wrench clicks. You wouldn't think it was tight, so I presume some people follow the wrong removal procedure and then compound it with over tightening. Sure you'll get it out and see what I mean. Bob
 

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It’s amazing how tight these end up even if you torque correctly. My first 450 had been mangled by the previous owner, I got it out eventually. The bike needs to be on its side so you can hold the allen bit in position with some plumbers pliers or mole grips and give it a few hard whacks with a decent hammer.
Then put the breaker bar on the allen bit, get your weight right over it and a bunch of rag underneath your fist to stop you punching the concrete and go for it.
If the allen key turns in the plug, hammer in a torx.
I guess a rattle gun would probably do it too but I’ve not tried.
 

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I can’t remember
I replaced the plug with one of these which has a torx T45 and an external hex.




 

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Or .... once you have a new oem plug, weld in a bit of allen key so you can get a socket on it for future oil changes?
 

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To be honest when I had my 4stroke that filter did not get very dirty the most important filters to keep on top of are the two paper ones, if it was my bike I would not risk taking the screen out you run a very good chance of cracking the casing.
 

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I have freed of lots of these.
Best way is to get the tools ready, then go for a ride to get the engine proper hot.
Then come back and lay it on it's right side.
Then take a 4" long length of 16mm steel rod or an old M16 bolt and give the plug a few hard whacks with a 2 lb hammer. This shocks the thread and also distorts the hex hole.
Then hammer is a good quality 8mm allen socket and it should come out. Put the bike upright before you fully remove otherwise shards might get into the oil pump.
If it spins on the allen key, use a centre punch to mark the plug then to turn it, then undo with allen key.

Like I say, I have done lots, never used an eazi-out or bashed a torx in.

Replacements from KTM come with a T45 centre and 13mm hex. Smear with copper grease and torque to 7 lbft which is just enough to nip the o-ring.

It's the most important part of the oil circuit, protects the pumps and gives an early warning of bearing failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for that...I'll give it a try at the next oil change.

Not too worried in the mean time as the other screen, the magnetic drain plug and the filters all looked good on removal...there was just a little gunge on the magnet, but no bright metals anywhere.

I like the idea of the two-tools option for getting the plug out.

I think I'll get replacements for the other plugs too.

I've not always had great success with eazi-outs....with broken studs they seem to make the stud fatter and jam it harder into the hole. :(
 

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When did they swap to the T45? It’s one of them that’s on the quad thankfully.
 

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When did they swap to the T45? It’s one of them that’s on the quad thankfully.
in 2007, it's off the later model but is supplied if you order an RFS one now.
 
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