Start with standard front disc so it's a quick swap. 14:45 is good gearing, or try 15:48 as you may be abole to use the same chain.
4.25 rear with a 150 tyre will be easier to fit than a 5" with 160. 120 front is normal on a 3.5 rim.

 

Right ok thanks. Can I use my hubs & get them wired onto some other 17” rims or will that not work

 

Get some complete wheels so you can swap them back to 21 and 18's.

 

+

Smaller front sm fender and a replacement swing arm chain runner with a small integral chain guide to save the whipping on side of tyre. KTM might still do them. PECGAZ used to make one, but havent seen him on here for ages. That era of bike generally benefit from more air as they can be quite rich. XBikes dyno on my old 530 led to using a more open side cover and open filter cage (no flame screen). Decent handguards and maybe some axle sliders.

 

Yeah I will thanks. I’ve also been told that I need to change the stroke as a crosser, enduro & Supermoto all have different stroke lengths! Is this right ??

 

I think someone has been winding you up!

 

Yeah I wasn’t sure if he was or not to be fair. He’s one of those people where you can’t tell if he’s serious or not 🤣

 

Thinking of getting the wheels & tyres from 24MX. Anyone used them?

 

Ok so I bought the Twenty wheels from 24MX.

they look good quality. Also got a 14T & 44T sprockets & a 520 X Ring chain. Is the chain tension the same for both off & on road?

 

Reviving an old thread here NORTE23 but i hope youre still active.... ive been looking to get a SM road set up sorted for my 2019 EXCF250, i came across those wheels on 24mx aswell, im wondering how you got on with them quality wise? And wether you just used a standard disc or did you need to use a relocation calliper and large disc for the road?
Cheers Ben

 

Oh n I got some boots too 👍🏻

obviously I’m putting tubes in them with the wheels being spokes so is this rim tape stuff I need special stuff ? Or is it just tape? Like duct tape or gorilla tape. Stupid question probably but not if you don’t know right 🤔

 

Demon Tweeks saves the day. Went over & got rim tape, inner tubes & a filter at the same time. They couldn’t fit me in to fit the tyres so I thought feck it I’ll do it my self. Can’t believe how easy it was.

 

 

What sort of tyre pressures should I be running for road use ??

 

well it appears with the standard bolts for the brake disc they hit the caliper carrier.

 

Mire likely the Chinese got the spacer dimension slightly out. Is the wheel slighty towards the left?

 

It actually needs to be more to the left if your looking from behind it for the bolts to clear. I’m in work tonight so I’ll get some M6 low profile bolts.

 

Well I was thinking that but it measures 180mm from spacer to spacer the same as the dirt wheel does.

 

Rim tape / tubeless. Lots of info out there about doing a tubeless conversion on spoked rims using 3M 4411 / 12N extreme sealing tape. I did it on some alpina wheels when they starting leaking at the spoke 0 rings. Many thousands of miles later, still good.

 

Oh right cool. Thanks for the info. I’m glad someone can actually say they have done it & how long it lasts as all the videos just say it’s done like this but then no time line info. Much appreciated

 

The main thing is to be really clean. I used alcohol to clean the rim, then sealed each spoke end with marine grade silicone. Let that go off for 24 hrs, gently warm rim with a hair dryer then slowly apply tape, pressing into place. The tape is like nothing else (l can only compare it to self adhesive acoustic sheet for automotive use) in terms of adhesion. I did mine about 4yrs ago, maybe longer. Lots of people will say its a bodge, but it is tried and tested. As l said, lots of info on line - Adventure rider in the states had a load of info amongst others.

Chain tension - l would run what you should be running for offroad, but bear in mind that the side of the tyre will tend to get a bit of chain whip, but dont worry about it too much.

Front gork guards - not sure if you asked, but full wrap round gork guards will foul on the wider wheel set up, so either chop accordingly or easier still get some open / blade type guards.

 

Sealant - sikaflex or tigerseal for spoke ends would be as good as the marine stuff.

 

Great info pal thanks. My fork guards aren’t wrap arounds anyway & have a designed in type of cut out so I had no worries there. Got the sprockets & chain done & found the issue with brake disc bolt fouling on the caliper carrier, turns out the spacers are labelled wrong. Right is labelled left & left labelled right, swapped them round & all fits nice. I’m in work now in the process of fabricating a small part to reduce chain run on the tyre. If it works I will post pics & the CAD drawings I did for it so others can replicate. Can’t wait to ride it now. Again thanks for the info. If I get any punctures I will go down that route.

 

I think l mentioned - there was a ktm part / part made pecgaz on here - that was a rearward continuation of the upper chain slider with a small chain retaining guard ...... very neat and in the matching material. You could search on here but images are probably lost because of photobucket being a bunch of. @KevInYorks might have a pic of one ..... interested to see what you come up with.

 

That’s all sorted now & in line perfectly. Can’t get this WS setting to work though now. Disconnected the 3 wire plug, get WS to flash but when I press + it does nothing. Then I got the Rb 2206 battery fault so I went & got a new battery thinking it was that, replaced it but guess what…..yeah still doesn’t work.

 

Perhaps the button is faulty. Use the 4 pin connector instead.

 

Elaborate please

 

There is a 4 pin connector wired to the speedo for remote 3 button handlebar switch. I think yellow is common (or green) so run a wire from the common and tap it on the others to effectively scroll etc through the menu to set WS

 

Haha guess what happened…………………was out riding yesterday, had done around 80 miles with regular smoke breaks. On the way home was sat at 50mph minding my own business when the engine suddenly without any warning what so ever made a loud crackling noise then a clunk & a pop & cut out. Got recovered home & left it overnight with out doing anything. Today I took the oil fill plug out & found bits everywhere inside. Looks & feels like metal particles. Now is it worth stripping & repairing or not. Do I try to find another motor. I’m presuming the repair bill will be over £1k.

 

Ooops! Needs taking apart to see what's amiss.