KTM Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,
Thanks to @charlie264 and @KevInYorks I have made the decision to sort the gearbox out from my new bike. Long story to get to this point but the work is underway. (See image below.) Note that the adjustable spanner is just for effect :) !
Making good progress. I have only bought a full gasket set and the engine locking bolt.
In getting to the clutch booster I realise I am going to need to buy some more parts - the Clutch locking bracket p/n 60029003000 for example.
Can anyone give me a list of the minimum specialist tools I will need? Or means to work around their use?

I know that for example when I need to torque the head bolt I can use a spanner and use a torque wrench at 90 degrees to it rather than buying that specific part.
I am hoping to order the extra parts on Tuesday.
Now its started it actually quite good fun and with taking some time on a sensible labelling approach does not seem too difficult (not yet anyway).
Thank you for any help you can give.
Kindest regards,

Nicholas
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the link.
Next question. (Humbled look.)
Currently I am attempting to keep the pistons on the conrods to minimise work. I have ordered the part for the clutch to undo that side. The fly wheel however, if I am going to connect a rattle gun, will need to have the engine properly locked down or I risk damage. Will the engine locking bolt be sufficient for this? I have my doubts and wonder if I need to get the fly wheel puller bolts.... Can you reassure me on this or make another suggestion? The two specialist bolts come to about £18 but could be money well spent.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,722 Posts
ISTR look on Hall of Wisdom, you can make a bolt/pusher for fly wheel. Just hold engine with rattle gun, when you need to re-torque just leave the cluth cover off when you put engine back in. I'd remove pistons and just give them a clean with WD etc, don't remove rings but check they are OK. Mark each piston and orientation. Make sure the gudgeon pin clip is properly seated when you reinstall pistons.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I think I found what you were referring to:
how to remove the flywheel with out any special tools

I further like the quote:
Years ago, my auto shop teacher said, "if you need a tool and don't buy it, you pay for it anyway."

It appears that without the right tools there is a lot of hit and miss. Getting the right puller for the flywheel is not too expensive and could safe alot of faff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I am anticipating disassembling everything and then working out what needs repairing.
With the bearings in particular the plan is to drive to a KTM dealer - primed and in agreement, to take out / off what's needed and put on / in the new stuff.
An hours work for them will save bruises scrapes and swear words😁
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Is there such a thing as gearbox overrun?
When the bike was in top year the noise was most pronounced.
When I use the two shafts by hand there seems to be quite a lag in the cogs when in top - clearly this is normal. When pushing the cogs from one lock to the other the same type of clack, I think, it being produced. I am wondering if when the engine was running the gearbox would jolt itself forward then have the cogs catch up with a clack. If this was the case how can this be remedied?
All the cogs - prior to disassembly are like new. No missing teeth, no metal shards, no obvious wear on anything.
My mechanic friend suggest its like the synchromesh dogs catching.
We have yet to take it properly to bits but its its something like the above I am not sure we would see anything.
Could this be a shims issue where the cogs are not aligning correctly?
@KevInYorks I know we had an initial chat before I got my hands oily but you you have any in sight on this specific?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
are the rolling gears on the shafts running smoothly? they run on needle bearings, and if they're fooked the gears can bounce around until they're engaged.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NAJ8ry

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Oh my. I can't find the problem!!
Everything is slick and free running. No obvious signs of wear anywhere..... Have taken off all the cogs / bearings all smooth. (The only exception is the bearings of the gear selector drum which feels just a little gritty but then it does not move very much anyway.)
I have a measured the gear forks and they are practically identical to those of the spare gear box I bought off ebay.
The clacking was real honest!
How can this be?
An engine is not that complicated .... but it makes me want to pull my hair out!
I feel that there might be a need for a whiskey or three this evening.
Any help gratefully received.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
The drum looks better than the one on the other gear box.
I have already bought some gearbox fork rollers. There were 0.04 mm wear on them. I have not yet looked an any tolerances in the manual if there are any. I will get a photo and post it later.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,722 Posts
Oh my. I can't find the problem!!
Everything is slick and free running. No obvious signs of wear anywhere..... Have taken off all the cogs / bearings all smooth. (The only exception is the bearings of the gear selector drum which feels just a little gritty but then it does not move very much anyway.)
I have a measured the gear forks and they are practically identical to those of the spare gear box I bought off ebay.
The clacking was real honest!
How can this be?
An engine is not that complicated .... but it makes me want to pull my hair out!
I feel that there might be a need for a whiskey or three this evening.
Any help gratefully received.
Well I never thought it was the gearbox. As said all you can do is inspect an reassemble, checking as you go.
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
Top