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can you measure a pulse from the rotor pickup? have you connected the ecu?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
can you measure a pulse from the rotor pickup? have you connected the ecu?
I did connect the wires for the sensor to the loom.
I have a circuit connector but was unable to make a good connection with its electrodes. Tomorrow I will find away to get a small spade connector or the like to test it. My initial test showed 220ohms but it was a struggle getting the reading with such poor connections. A possible consequence 0v.... To be continued.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Make sure the coils are seated correctly. Check the fuel pump and you are getting fuel. Make sure the carbs are seated correctly and not drawing air. Check the resistance of pulse coil.
Coils - confirmed seated.
Fuel - can smell it, damp start spay did not fire up the engine
Carbs - took ages to seat them, pretty sure they're right, will check again. (If fuel related the damp start should have worked)
Resistance - 220 ohms, within tolerance. Have not checked voltage yet. The measurements was checked with feeler gauge at the time and torqued to spec.
I hope that's it though then I can fix the thing and get on with biking.
 

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Do a compression test
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Kill switch (wouldnt be the first!)
Not sure how to test this but when it's off the Speedo etc switches off and when on on.
I am getting a spark too.

The compression test is interesting as the bike was fine before I took it apart and it all went back together seemingly well.
Do I need a testing tool for this or is there a mechanics approach?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well if the timing is right first off?. Got a spark it can only be fuelling, all fuel lines open? Neutral, clutch and side stand switch connected? Must be summin simple you've missed on reassembly.
I try to start in neutral with the clutch in. The side stand switch is short circuited; black and red together with blue dislocated. This is something I read online to be correct.
 

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The compression test is interesting as the bike was fine before I took it apart and it all went back together seemingly well.
Do I need a testing tool for this or is there a mechanics approach?
rather simple:
take the plugs out and crank it, should go very easy and quickly! I take it the engine covers are already on, otherwise cranking by hand should be fine too.
put plug 1 in and try again, there should be a noticeable difference.
then plug 1 out, and put plug 2 in, repeat. the same noticeable difference should be heard.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
rather simple:
take the plugs out and crank it, should go very easy and quickly! I take it the engine covers are already on, otherwise cranking by hand should be fine too.
put plug 1 in and try again, there should be a noticeable difference.
then plug 1 out, and put plug 2 in, repeat. the same noticeable difference should be heard.
I will do this later today - all being well with the family.
 

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A compression test will let you know if you’ve bounced the valves
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Sorry, eb = engine locking bolt. Fits into the crank at TDC.
My turning of the engine was with plugs in and there was resistance. If there was a tiny . small amount of contact I did not hear it or feel it ... that's concerning.
Have just checked the voltage of the pulse generator and its approx 4.5 v and 231 ohms.
So, compression test later then its the carbs / petrol.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
The cams have always been set the way they are so could not have been setup wrong by me. However, coming from an untrusted, mechanic anything is possible.
The compression from the front seems really high but that from the rear is definitely lower. Is this a problem? In and of itself surly, even if one cylinder was totally duff, the other would fire and be away?
I don't know what to think now.
Could definitely be fuel as that's not something I have tested yet but I did try the damp start spay again and still no action.
Both carbs look to be seated properly. I can smell unburned petrol from the exhaust. Pump makes normal startup noises.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I thought that myself but when I put it on there was only one way it would go. Based on the gap being where it should be in the pictures centred on the shaft and there is a small hole that a pin needs to go though.
I could only find one place it would fit. If anyone else tells me different I could revisit it but it's a bit of a faff as you can imagine.
At the time I remember thinking how well the engine was thought through.
I appreciate you working with me on this.
There is definitely something that is not right somehow. Something does not make sense.
I checked the fuse for the ignition which was fine. All electronical connections are home.
It there an electronic plug in device that a Ktm garage has that can shine some light on this? - checking the ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Timing wheel aligned with balance shaft and crank?
All done as rear cylinder was fixed at tdc.
I believe that's correct.
Good news though.
I have found a problem. I man handled the carbs and found the front one is not secured property by its rubber join!
It may or may not be THE problem but it is one and I can fix it. It might be everything works after this. I really hope so.
 
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