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Folding Brake and Clutch Levers.

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5.4K views 33 replies 7 participants last post by  Ship  
#1 · (Edited)
Fell off the bike today like a complete twat in a car park. A bit lethargic after lunch, steep gradient, went to turn round, engine stalled, put me let out but could hold the SE. Ive increased the seat height, anyhow went over like a bag of shit....Front brake, bent lever like Rumpelstiltskin toe and bent the rear brake peddle stuffing it into the clutch cover.

Fooking other bikers there, did they come over, did they fuck.

Anyhow I want some lovely folding billet ones, but I want them compatible with the Brembo/KTM brake and clutch switches, basically I dont want to have faff around modding stuff.

Any suggestions?
 
#6 ·
Noted you said no faff..
I once used ASV levers on my Adv simply made a small triangle of 2 part metal and stuck it on the end that picks up the brake light switch of the ASV shorty levers
I reckon they were from an exc /sx.. Really liked them lasted for years without issues.

Not to much faff about 5 mins work....
Might help also
Old MX/enduro tricks its good to leave your lever perches a little loose (tight enough that it only moves if you give it a real hard bump) to allow the lever to roll up.

Cut slightly through the tip of the lever... so it breaks off rather than at the pivot point..
 
#9 ·
Just ordered these.


Fat lot of use, you lot were. :D
 
#13 ·
You'll see (if you have ever ran asv shortys) .
They don't have all the same movements and they are full length and the adjuster is primarily like a track bike set up for fading brakes.
I would be inclined to trust ASV more in an off than the current bad boys which feel and function more like for a Duke.
IMO that's HTF.

Anyways they're not a bad lever and still better than standard.

And No Faff...
 
#14 ·
You'll see (if you have ever ran asv shortys) .
They don't have all the same movements and they are full length and the adjuster is primarily like a track bike set up for fading brakes.
I would be inclined to trust ASV more in an off than the current bad boys which feel and function more like for a Duke.
IMO that's HTF.

Anyways they're not a bad lever and still better than standard.

And No Faff...
Oh well, as long as they are better than OEM.

I get your point, I'm not bothered they aren't short. TBH my days of handling the SE off road are getting less.
 
#15 ·
Not flogging the dead horse here but I found all these I forgot I had... The levers at the moment are FP racing the silver is the ASV shorty and the other orange one is some Chinese manufacturer for comparison and functionality
the FP lever does nothing
the ASV folds forward (with a loose perch) and up need to bond or 2 part metal the brake light switch pick up.
the Chinese manufactured hinges up (and up with a loose perch).
The original Brembo is also there to show the notch to cut SLIGHTLY through.
I'm posting this for anyone to find for future not a thread bump... Hope it helps someone out.
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#31 · (Edited)
Ok Ship, fitted today. The good news is they are plug and play, clutch and brake light switches operate as normal without the rubber gaiters. Also they are longer and the sweep bend in the lever is further away from the pivot because of the built in adjusters, personally I'd rather they just bent I dont really see the point of the adjusters as both OEM levers can be adjusted using the piston screw. Anyhow, so the master cylinder brackets need moving in more. I had to move the start button to in-between
the gap left between the throttle and master cylinder bracket.

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Now to the rubber gaiter on the brake, installed as normal it interferers with the brake light switch operation, so a pair of scissors and a hair cut. The rubber gaiters aren't strictly necessary, they prevent some dirt from getting into the lever joint but for me the main purpose they serve is preventing the lever pin jumping, falling out if the locking nut did become loose.

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Overall they are well made and if they prevent damage by bending up when I drop the bike I'll be reasonably happy, but if they don't, being more substantial than OEM levers they will probably bust the master cylinders. So I've move a couple of switches, moved levers in more and lost about an inch view from my mirrors.

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