Can you swap the sensors from one cylinder to the other , take the battery lead off for a bit , re connect then that should clear the stored code , then see if the fault code transfers to the other cylinder , if it does you know that it is the map sensor at fault .

If it doesn't you will need to check for 5 volt supply and earth on the relevant connector pins on the map sensor plug

 

No need to clear the code. Just swap them front to rear (or swap the rear for the one behind the headlight)

I had the same fault on holday a few years back.

 

Thanks for responses guys. I have switched the sensors around and fault has cleared although bike will still not start (sounds like starved of fuel). I did some digging around and found a connection under the fuel tank (clutch side) loose which I must have pulled too tightly when originally taking the tank off to fit the new throttle cable. Is this related to the injectors or Map sensors and could this intermittent connection be what was causing the initial problem? I've now fully removed the loose blue wire form the connector - below.



I am able to reconnect the wires with some cheap connectors but as the area's so exposed when riding I thought it best to order a OE connector...any idea what connector it is and where it runs to/is attached to? I have followed it up to under the headstock where it disappears into a million other wires...?

 

Tell us the colours of all the wires.

Have you tried following it the other way, out of the main loom?

 

not a good photo but that looks like the connection to the fuel pump , did you forget to disconnect it when you took the tank off ? The female part will be hanging down somewhere above the left fuel tap if it is . and I think its black in colour

 

I thought the same.

The fuel pump is a 3 way connector, but just 2 wires in the loom side of it, a blue/black wire and a brown wire.

Sidestand is 3 wires, blue, pink and black

Gear position is grey, yellow/brown and green/black. Only the green/black matters as that is neutral.

 

Kev what we need is a sticky thread named breakdown or something like that with all those bits if great info like that saved in it . When we are in the shit just search the thread.
I kept the wiring solution to the clutch cut out on my phone for ages knowing that if mine went it would be miles from home

 

Yeah fuel pump makes sense! Colours were blue, red and brown. I managed to repair the connection for a test and after swapping the LHS MAP sensor with the one behind the headlight mask it fired up. Ran the 'test' mode on the TuneECU and it read no faults.

Thanks for the help i'm sure it would have cost me a few £££ to take into dealer!

I will replace the damaged male connector for piece of mind!

 

Glad you sorted it , just thinking here ....the map sensor behind the headlight I assume is a altitude / barometric sensor when you swap that for the number one cylinder map sensor why are you not getting a fault code saying the altitude /Baro sensor is at fault now .
Only thing I can think of is that when the sensor fails its default reading must be atmospheric pressure so that's why there is no fault code for it .

 

that sensor seems to be a common failure , I think if I went on a long tour abroad I would buy a spare , at £76 it could be worth it .

other thing I need to understand is what about disconnecting a faulty sensor ?, when I eventually worked out how to balance the throttle bodies after kev said to disconnect the sensors , the bike seemed to run fine with them disconnected , I didn't ride it but none of the missing associated with a failed sensor .

 

When the sensors are un plugged by the electrical connector the ecm will put the limp susbstitute value into the inputs side of the ecm thats why they will behave pretty well , but if you have a genuine map sensor fault and the connector is plugged in ,the ecm is always looking for the signal from that sensor .

Similar to if you have a duff air mass meter on a car ....it will be dog slow to drive, but if you un plug the air mass the car will drive pretty well as the limp susbstitue value will be a 'middle of the range ' value allowing a reasonable drive .

 

Good info lee , does the smt have a limp mode ?

Wish I had known that recently after the frustrarpting and expensive problems diagnosing the maf sensor fault on my suzuki vitara . Even the dealer machine didn't flag it up . Just showed as 02 sensor fault every time .

 

From what you where saying about when you had your map sensors un plugged to do the throttle balance and you didnt see any driveability issue i would say the ecm has got limp ability .

Your Suzuki vitara issue ....... a lot cars i know do not have the ability to self diagnose air mass faults on the signal output , the air mass has to work in such a massive range ......hot/cold air , high/ low load , high revs, low revs so the ecm is not interrogating the signal due to the extensive working range .

But the lamda o2 sensor has seen it , at steady throttle under monitoring the lamda value will be going so lean its outside of its operating window because the air mass signal is so low due to the duff air mass .........the o2 code is a consequential code from another issue .

You very often get o2 sensor codes for inlet manifolds leaking and egr valves bleeding over , low fuel pressure ............

 

Alright, thanks a bunch for the reply. Cheers 👌👌

 

No need to clear the code. Just swap them front to rear (or swap the rear for the one behind the headlight)

I had the same fault on holday a few years back.

could someone please share the location of the connections behind the headlight for these two sensors. Cheers

Can you swap the sensors from one cylinder to the other , take the battery lead off for a bit , re connect then that should clear the stored code , then see if the fault code transfers to the other cylinder , if it does you know that it is the map sensor at fault .

If it doesn't you will need to check for 5 volt supply and earth on the relevant connector pins on the map sensor plug

could someone please share the location of the connections behind the headlight for these two sensors. Cheers

No need to clear the code. Just swap them front to rear (or swap the rear for the one behind the headlight)

I had the same fault on holday a few years back.

Hi all,

After I changed the throttle cable on my 990sm I started getting 9 blinks on the orange FI light after switching ignition on . After a little digging i discovered the 9 flashes relate to the following error code -

09 - Warning lamp FI (MIL) flashes 9x short

Manifold absolute pressure sensor cylinder 1 - input signal too low
Manifold absolute pressure sensor cylinder 1 - input signal too high

I think i have located the two sensors on each manifold but they look in good condition (visually) so i'm a little stumped as what to do next?

Initially the bike would start, idle a little rough but actually ride ok (apart from low speed where it was snatchy as fcuk!). I had to take it out yesterday and after 30 miles it cut out and now wont start at all - sounded like it was starved of fuel. Do i just buy new sensors or is there anything else i can check first?

I have a TuneECU which confirmed the 9 flashes mean the above error code but no other faults were stored...??

Cheers!

No need to clear the code. Just swap them front to rear (or swap the rear for the one behind the headlight)

I had the same fault on holday a few years back.

Could someone show a picture of where behid the healight these two connectors attach, many thanks

 

could someone please share the location of the connections behind the headlight for these two sensors. Cheers

could someone please share the location of the connections behind the headlight for these two sensors. Cheers




Could someone show a picture of where behid the healight these two connectors attach, many thanks

Hey bud. Just got back on the forum. Did you eventually find em or still searching?