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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

I carried out a service on my smt 990 and must have over tightened the bolt that holds the cap over the Long round paper oil filter, it’s 5mm I think.

The bolt is in the bike and the bike has leaked all of its oil so I can’t even take it anywhere.

Is anyone near the Milton Keynes area that can help? I’ll happily pay or reward with beers etc.

Thanks
 

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If the broken bolts' body is still there, and standing proud of the engine casing, then simply remove the filter cover and get hold of what remains of the broken bolt with vice grips and twist it out.

If in doubt then put a picture up of what your have now and we can suggest a way forward.
 

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Buy yourself a set of Boa Grabit micro screw removers. Best we've ever used. No need for a centre punch or anything - It's double ended and my experience is the drill end is actually a cutter and usually removes the broken bolt without needing to flip it to use the extractor part. Just use a cordless drill anti clockwise as slow as it will turn - they really work. £20 for the set of 4 from Amazon. They do two size packs, but the largest one in the micro set removes up to 6mm broken studs. The smallest will remove a 2/3mm stud. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the broken bolts' body is still there, and standing proud of the engine casing, then simply remove the filter cover and get hold of what remains of the broken bolt with vice grips and twist it out.

If in doubt then put a picture up of what your have now and we can suggest a way forward.
Thanks- here’s what it looks like....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Buy yourself a set of Boa Grabit micro screw removers. Best we've ever used. No need for a centre punch or anything - It's double ended and my experience is the drill end is actually a cutter and usually removes the broken bolt without needing to flip it to use the extractor part. Just use a cordless drill anti clockwise as slow as it will turn - they really work. £20 for the set of 4 from Amazon. They do two size packs, but the largest one in the micro set removes up to 6mm broken studs. The smallest will remove a 2/3mm stud. Bob
Thank you. I’ll take a look at these now.
 

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Stud extractor. Carefully drill the centre of the bolt with a 3 mm bit and use a stud extractor/easy-out.
Used mine many times in similar situations. To grip them I use the the T handle from my thread tap set. Spanners and wrenches tend to lever the extractor out.
Getting it started with a good bite is the key. I tap with a small hammer as I'm turning the extractor into the hole so it gets a good purchase, making sure it's going in straight. Keep T bar straight as you start to apply pressure.
Easy-outs can take a lot of torque. Sometimes if the stud is really stuck fast you thing the extractor is going to sheer, but it won't. Keep applying a steady force and the stud will let go.
Worth carefully applying some heat from a hair dryer of paint stripper first.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Stud extractor. Carefully drill the centre of the bolt with a 3 mm bit and use a stud extractor/easy-out.
Used mine many times in similar situations. To grip them I use the the T handle from my thread tap set. Spanners and wrenches tend to lever the extractor out.
Getting it started with a good bite is the key. I tap with a small hammer as I'm turning the extractor into the hole so it gets a good purchase, making sure it's going in straight. Keep T bar straight as you start to apply pressure.
Easy-outs can take a lot of torque. Sometimes if the stud is really stuck fast you thing the extractor is going to sheer, but it won't. Keep applying a steady force and the stud will let go.
Worth carefully applying some heat from a hair dryer of paint stripper first.
Thanks for the advice. I just bought the set recommend above, I will give this a go when the set arrives tomorrow. Thanks again. I'll post the results.
 

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Hi, sure it will work, I've used LH drill bits followed by extractors but just a palaver. I've removed 3 broken gear change studs (with some heat because of Loctite) and most challenging was a broken off rad shroud screw in tank. My wee tool came to the rescue again. Then young Bob's plastic peak screws on his Shoei helmets which break off flush. Works on them as well. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi, sure it will work, I've used LH drill bits followed by extractors but just a palaver. I've removed 3 broken gear change studs (with some heat because of Loctite) and most challenging was a broken off rad shroud screw in tank. My wee tool came to the rescue again. Then young Bob's plastic peak screws on his Shoei helmets which break off flush. Works on them as well. Bob
Thanks Bob. I’ll take my time with it tomorrow and have a good shot at it. Sounds positive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE. I bought the kit, fitted it to my drill and realised the space is just too limit to get at it square on, I didn’t want to go in at an angle so I didn’t use it. I’m back to square 1 and can’t even find a mobile mechanic to try and remove it. Does any know a mobile service that could help?

Otherwise, I’m selling a 2009 990 SMT in great condition apart from a bolt stuck in it if you’re interested!
 

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I still think the best approach in this is to drill out the bolt with 2mm then 5mm drills. I woud go past 15mm depth.

if at all accessible try to tap M4 into the stud (core diameter = 3.5mm so drill 3.5mm) and use a long screw and locking nut to extract the stud. if that doesn't work then drill out to 5mm.
just don't break the thread tap! if that happens you've got a serious problem (for the non-machine-shop-at-hand guys like us).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I still think the best approach in this is to drill out the bolt with 2mm then 5mm drills. I woud go past 15mm depth.

if at all accessible try to tap M4 into the stud (core diameter = 3.5mm so drill 3.5mm) and use a long screw and locking nut to extract the stud. if that doesn't work then drill out to 5mm.
just don't break the thread tap! if that happens you've got a serious problem (for the non-machine-shop-at-hand guys like us).
I appreciate the response but I cannot get a drill bit near the bolt. The engine Case is in the Way and I can only get in at an angle. This will mess everything up sadly. Here’s some pics
34390
34391
 

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If you are unable to drill it then you might be able to find someone who can 'blob' some weld on it using a MIG welder, you can then grab the blob or even weld a nut on the end and turn it If it was my engine I would weld it in VERY short busts, you don't want the cases to get damaged!

Did it break whilst you were undoing it or doing it up? The reason that I ask is to try to determine whether the threaded bit left in the casing is likely to be tight in the hole or not.
 

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Do you not have an extension for the drill?
 

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Otherwise, I’m selling a 2009 990 SMT in great condition apart from a bolt stuck in it if you’re interested!
How much do you want for the top of the broken bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you are unable to drill it then you might be able to find someone who can 'blob' some weld on it using a MIG welder, you can then grab the blob or even weld a nut on the end and turn it If it was my engine I would weld it in VERY short busts, you don't want the cases to get damaged!

Did it break whilst you were undoing it or doing it up? The reason that I ask is to try to determine whether the threaded bit left in the casing is likely to be tight in the hole or not.
It happened when tightening by hand sadly.
 

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Nope, didn't know they existed to be fair.
Bosch do one. Is your drill round or a hex end? If it's a hex head there are lots of extension bars, if it's round they are harder to get.
 

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It happened when tightening by hand sadly.
In that case it is likely that the bolt just stretched to the point where the head fell off, this means that the lump of thread is likely to be quite loose in the hole. This is a good thing! (Unless it was really tight all the while that you were screwing the bolt into the hole?)
 
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