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I have a 150mm long 5mm drill here in NL I could send it to you if you can't find an extension.
is there a machine shop in the neighbourhood, or an agricultural repair shop? they tend to have the most brute and sometimes the strangest/coolest tools lying around. or even an engine overhaul shop (ones that do cylinder head repairs and engine block skimming and line boring that sort of stuff)?

just looked at my 990SMT and I see what you mean wrt space.

what I find strange is how you manage to break a 8.8 quality screw by hand in aluminium cases...
 
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Try getting a pin (nitting needle or something) and see if you can rotate the stuck bit out anti clockwise. if its in there loose and you can get the pin on the edge and try rotate it. be patient, can even try tapping the pin lightly at an angle.

You maybe able to think of something better than a pin / nitting needle but you get my drift.
 

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Skewer sharpened to a fine point if you need something long maybe, just trying to help and throw ideas out there.
 

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If it is fairly loose, try getting a small, single slot screw driver, tapping it into the stud so it indents and then turn it out like a screw.
 

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If it is fairly loose, try getting a small, single slot screw driver, tapping it into the stud so it indents and then turn it out like a screw.
+1 I am with Knapper I did exactly that when same happened to me, make sure the screwdriver head is very very (sharp) to create a slot when you tap it. And don’t go mad tapping it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I have a 150mm long 5mm drill here in NL I could send it to you if you can't find an extension.
is there a machine shop in the neighbourhood, or an agricultural repair shop? they tend to have the most brute and sometimes the strangest/coolest tools lying around. or even an engine overhaul shop (ones that do cylinder head repairs and engine block skimming and line boring that sort of stuff)?

just looked at my 990SMT and I see what you mean wrt space.

what I find strange is how you manage to break a 8.8 quality screw by hand in aluminium cases...
Hi, Really appreciate the offer and I'll take a look around locally and see what I can find. I used the KTM tool, the star headed one and that whats snapped it, I should have used a torque wrench but I was out on the bike at the time.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Skewer sharpened to a fine point if you need something long maybe, just trying to help and throw ideas out there.
Thanks Andy, Dusty & Knapper. I have tried this technique and its a good idea but it's not budging at all. I'll keep thinking of ways and trying things, I will try and find a nice long drill bit as DucATIRadeon mentions.

Thanks for all your suggestions, I hope I can help you guys one day.
 

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I didn't realise there was such limited access from your initial photos. Pity as I could guarantee the Grabit would remove it. However, handy to have. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I’m buying a hex Attachment 2mm Drill bit, using an extension tool for my drill, this will reach and give me a 2mm hole in the bolt.
Im then using reverse thread bolt remover with a t-bar.
I’ll have a go at the weekend and let you know. Thanks
 

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Sounds like a plan. You could try a 2 or 3mm left hand drill bit if you can get one long enough or with a hex attachment - may be enough of a reverse action to remove it with some heat. I don't like to be stuck and tried things with our Grabits but the problem is the shaft is smooth opposite end of cutter so couldn't see how anything (like a small socket) could be attached. Good luck with it anyway. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Update....

Patience paid off. My reverse 2.5mm drill bit. £3.

Dremel chuck extension. £6.50

Eazy out set and Reverse tool. £5.

Thread still in tact and I now need a new bolt to fill the oil and try it out! (Tomorrow)

thanks for all your input. It’s appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #34

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aye, but M5 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 are stronger than the aluminium thread in the cases so big chance the thread will get stripped...

and if it does get stripped or the thread gets damaged: you can tap M6 thread in there directly (drill diameter is rule-of-thumb the nominal diameter - thread pitch, i.e. M6x1 = 5mm drill dia. M5x0.8 = 4.2mm drill dia etc.).
then you can use proper M6 screws. the holes in the filter cover will need boring out to 6.5 or 7mm...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Bet they aren't 10.9's. 6 Nm monkey boy, that screwdriver tight.
SPECIFICATIONBolt SizeM5BrandEasyfixConstruction Material (Fixings)A2 Stainless SteelManufacturer Guarantee1 Year GuaranteePack Size50Pieces in Pack/Case50Product Length16 mmProduct TypeCap Head Socket Screws
 

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Discussion Starter #38
aye, but M5 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 are stronger than the aluminium thread in the cases so big chance the thread will get stripped...

and if it does get stripped or the thread gets damaged: you can tap M6 thread in there directly (drill diameter is rule-of-thumb the nominal diameter - thread pitch, i.e. M6x1 = 5mm drill dia. M5x0.8 = 4.2mm drill dia etc.).
then you can use proper M6 screws. the holes in the filter cover will need boring out to 6.5 or 7mm...
[/QUOTE]
thank you for the info. Could be handy one day.
 

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SPECIFICATIONBolt SizeM5BrandEasyfixConstruction Material (Fixings)A2 Stainless SteelManufacturer Guarantee1 Year GuaranteePack Size50Pieces in Pack/Case50Product Length16 mmProduct TypeCap Head Socket Screws
Ok. A2 stainless, use anti seize grease, copper ease. Stainless will weld itself to ally by bi-metallic corrosion.
 
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