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Discussion Starter #1
Checked my valve clearances at the weekend and the right hand inlet valve is a bit tight at 0.05mm (should be 0.07 to 0.13). How crucial is it to sort, should i be rushing down to buy new shims?

Im comfortable checking the clearances but ive never had to change a shim. Is there a guide anywhere? Its a 690 LC4.

Whilst im here can anyone recommend some feeler guages. The ones i have only go in .05mm steps so im after something a bit more accurate.

Cheers
-Paul
 

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Checked my valve clearances at the weekend and the right hand inlet valve is a bit tight at 0.05mm (should be 0.07 to 0.13). How crucial is it to sort, should i be rushing down to buy new shims?

Im comfortable checking the clearances but ive never had to change a shim. Is there a guide anywhere? Its a 690 LC4.

Whilst im here can anyone recommend some feeler guages. The ones i have only go in .05mm steps so im after something a bit more accurate.

Cheers
-Paul
What's the mileage on the bike? Not seen any requiring shims at the 6000 mile service.
 

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Tight clearances = chance of burnt valves if you leave them until clearance is zero.

Loose clearances = loss of performance and ineffective automatic decomp (exhaust valves)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
its possible there was some residual heat but it wasnt 'hot' had been standing for a few hours.

Its just turned over 6000 miles this week.

I remember seeing a thread on here about something worth checking in a head, a worn bolt or something which can cause the rattling but cant find it again. any ideas?
 

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Think the bike needs to be stone cold before ya check them.. If ya drop the bike into a shop to get them checked, they wont do them till the following mornin..
 

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you mean they will wait until the morning and then charge me 6 hours labour to get them checked?
My local shop its a set price for valves.. I'm sayin ya didnt leave it long enough.
 

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Stone cold or not, they are tight, and they will get worse if you dont sort it.
 

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Do the clearances usually get tighter?

Doesn't that mean either the valve or valve seat has worn?

I would have thought they would get loose as the top of the valve stem or cam wears?
 

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Do the clearances usually get tighter?

Doesn't that mean either the valve or valve seat has worn?

I would have thought they would get loose as the top of the valve stem or cam wears?
Yes, that valve seat wears faster than the top of the valve or cam, cause these are oiled well.

Check here on how to adjust valve clearances.

690 SMC valve check/adjust (pics + questions)

BTW the ktm service manual (on a CD) does not cover that, so dont bother buying it as I did
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Next time i check i will make sure its stone cold. Interestingly my clearances are exactly the same on the intake side as the guy that wrote the guide posted above.

Its a royal pain in the arse though, will need to pull everything apart, find out what the standard shims are. Order the new ones and put everything back together until the shims arrive when ill have to do it all over again. I miss the screw type adjustment on my 125!
 

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If your local ktm workshop is charging you for the time the bike is sitting there cooing down....find a new workshop and ride away giving them the 2 finger salute :D
Umm we're the local shop and we don't charge for letting the bike cool down! We don't even charge storage for keeping it in the shop overnight....................

:rolleyes:
 

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Umm we're the local shop and we don't charge for letting the bike cool down! We don't even charge storage for keeping it in the shop overnight....................

:rolleyes:
Thats wot we told him...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i wasnt talking about the cooling down, i was saying you pay a fortune for a valve check at any garage when i can do it myself for the grand sum of £9 for a set of feeler gauges.
 
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