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Is a 2023 1290 SAS a jerk that likes to jerk off?

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1K views 28 replies 13 participants last post by  ProfG  
#1 ·
The thing seems to like a little jerk when accelerating. It is quite disconcerting when you lose power for a split second and it then goes full blast.
At first I thought it had to do with releasing the clutch lever too quickly but it does it on a run on the motorway also.
Another thought that occurred to me was maybe I was giving it too much throttle suddenly but most times it does not affect how I twist the throttle.
It just seems to jerk and off if goes. Bloody jerk-off.
 
#4 ·
Something not right there, lower gears it could be TC if you're twatting the throttle open suddenly, this will be worse in road and better in sport mode.
I have it in sport mode. I am thinking of disabling quickshift to see if it helps. It is usually in 6th gear.

Foot to close to the gear lever ,maybe ?
I'll bear that in mind but how would that affect it?
 
#5 ·
I have it in sport mode. I am thinking of disabling quickshift to see if it helps. It is usually in 6th gear.


I'll bear that in mind but how would that affect it?
If you're putting pressure on the lever the QS could cut the ign/inj...
 
#10 ·
First noticed it in comfort mode. Now it is in sports mode but will try street setting. Maybe it needs a remap 🤷‍♂️
 
#15 · (Edited)
Still keeps on happening. Yesterday on a twisty jaunt, it happened twice within a few moments. Talk about shitting yourself when on a twisty. QS is off. Will ask the dealers to check it when going for a service. Was supposed to be tomorrow but don't fancy riding in the wind and rain (storm whatever it is called now), so rebooked it for next week.

Seems a few people have had this issue:



Google AI has come up with this answer:
The issue of a KTM 1290 Super Adventure cutting out and jerking, particularly in 5th and 6th gear while accelerating, is likely due to a fuel or ignition system problem, possibly exacerbated by higher gear loads. Potential causes include a weak spark, insufficient fuel delivery, or issues with the quickshifter's firmware. Addressing this requires checking the fuel system (fuel pump, filter, injectors), spark plugs, and potentially updating the quickshifter's software.

Possible Causes and Troubleshooting:

  • Fuel System:
    • Fuel Pump: The OEM fuel pump is known to be a potential failure point. Consider a fuel pressure test and potentially replacing the pump with a Quantum fuel pump kit, which includes a new filter.
Fuel Filter: A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow, especially under higher loads in higher gears.

Fuel Injectors: Clogged or malfunctioning fuel injectors can cause inconsistent fuel delivery.

Fuel Quality: While less likely, a bad batch of fuel or water contamination can also cause issues.

Ignition System:

  • Spark Plugs: Check the spark plugs for proper gap and condition. A weak spark can cause misfires and hesitation.
Spark Plug Wires/Coil: Inspect the spark plug wires and coils for any damage or loose connections.

Quickshifter:

  • Firmware Update: A software glitch in the quickshifter can sometimes cause erratic behavior. Consider having the latest firmware update installed.
Other Potential Issues:

  • Battery: Weak or loose battery connections can cause intermittent electrical problems.
Side Stand Switch: A faulty side stand switch can also cause issues with the engine cutting out.

Exhaust Valve: A stuck exhaust valve can also cause misfires and hesitation, particularly in higher gears.

Airbox: Ensure the airbox is properly sealed and that there are no issues with the intake system.

Flywheel/Stator: In some cases, issues with the flywheel or stator can lead to misfires, but this is less common.



Troubleshooting Steps:

  1. Start with the basics: Check the battery connections, fuel level, and ensure the fuel cap is venting correctly.
Check spark plugs: Replace if needed and ensure proper gap.

Inspect the airbox: Make sure it's properly sealed and clean.

Consider a fuel system check: This may involve a fuel pressure test, cleaning or replacing the fuel filter, and potentially cleaning or replacing the fuel injectors.

Check for error codes: Use an OBD reader to check for any stored error codes related to the engine management system or traction control.

Consult a qualified mechanic: If the problem persists, it's best to consult with a KTM mechanic who can properly diagnose and repair the issue.

Note: Some of the forum posts linked suggest that the issue may be related to a specific modification, such as an aftermarket exhaust or air filter. If you have made any modifications to your bike, it's worth investigating whether they could be contributing to the problem
 
#17 ·
Went out for a 50 mile ride yesterday and the bike behaved itself.

Just took the bike for service This morning and the bike again behaved itself all through the 25 odd miles there Told them about the cutting out.
The mechanic took it for a ride and told me it did it so thankfully the dealers here are aware of it and will have a look at it.
 
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#18 ·
Got the bike back after its 9500 or 2 year (don't know, don't care) service.

1) The cutting out jerk has been entered into the KTM system and a ticket raised with KTM super lords.
2) It was last serviced by M&P in Swansea. Terrible job. The oil filter was inserted wrong and the metal cap had come off. The oil filter itself had collapsed due to wrong fitting (see attached).
3) The bike seemed to veer to the right when you let go of the handle bars. The dealership here checked it and found it to be so. Upon checking the tyres, they found a difference of over 2 mm on either side of the swing arm, so the chain was not adjusted properly.
4) The nut on the swing arm was far too tight and needed a 'herculean' effort (according the mechanic) to loosen it so the adjusters at the back could be adjusted.

The bike seems to run much smoother and more responsive now. Had the oil, oil and air filters, the brake fluid changed; the rear tyre adjusted properly, the QS re set and parts ordered from the KTM overlords to address the jerking issue. All for £276 which seems fair to me. In addition, they also provided a £5 voucher for the quaint local cafe and a lift there and back. They also offered a choice of bikes to go out for a ride while they were working on my bike (an SMT or Huskvarna) which I declined - could not be bothered incase of a mishap or something.

Very good service from KTM's newest dealership (HTM motorcycles, Cullybackey).

Image
 
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#22 ·
I've only had the bike 6 weeks and been out on runs. Only one short trip to the motorcycle charity garage and back. The rest have all been over 50 mile trips (150 - 300 miles)
 
#21 ·
They have raised a ticket with KTM UK and are waiting for their instructions. They have already ordered the gasket in advance and are waiting for the part and the go ahead from KTM UK. Once they have the go ahead they will recall the bike to replace the part.

The issue seems to be a bad batch of ignition rotor (part number 61939005000). The teeth are not properly machined and there seems to be a difference between the teeth gap.

I would take the bike in, explain it to the main dealer, print out and give them the following and ask them to take it for a test spin. It is quite intermittent and seems to be a combination of certain speeds, gear and rpm (when they all conspire to align or malign as the case may be). Tell them to contact JD Racing in Saltash and make sure you do not go to M&P in Swansea.


Jerking / cutting out for a split second

At around 2500 – 3200 rpm and 28mph in 2nd, 36mph in 3rd or 68mph in 6th and open the throttle.

Take the alternator cover off and look at the poorly machined rotor.

Anybody with the same issue in the UK contact JD racing in Saltash.

There is a problem with the machining on the ignition rotor.. in some instances there is a gap where the 'teeth' are milled down and there is an inaccuracy where there is still a slight shadowing of the former teeth which is picking up on the ignition.

The head technician measured to 0.1mm the gap between all of the teeth and found inaccuracies in their size and gaps between them which showed significant differences.

The bulletin advised a replacement rotor. Its out there in the KTM dealer network. Apparently they had a batch with bad magnetism causing the issues.

The ignition rotor ktm part number 61939005000

https://www.ktmforums.com/threads/ktm-1290-super-adventure-r-2021-throttle-jerk.138068/

https://www.ktmforum.co.uk/threads/power-cuts-for-a-second-on-med-high-acceleration-1290-sa-t.1395535/



 
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#24 ·
I think he had it sorned for about 6 months
 
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#25 ·
Took it in on Saturday for the main dealers to look at it after they called me to say they have the gaskets. Just had a call from them that after inspection, it is the rotor that they have now ordered and it should be with them by next week. So possibly 2 weeks without the bike but not a big loss as I have no plans to ride for the moment.
 
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#27 ·
You have to insist they check the ignition rotor. I would just leave it at the dealers and insist they look at it.
 
#28 ·
Got a call from the dealers.They got the rotor in this morning and fitted it. They said they went out on a test run twice and it seemed OK. I can collect it sometime this week and see for myself. They said to bring it back to them if there were anymore jerks or cutouts. That was brilliant service. Very happy with these new main dealers.

Here's hoping 🤞
 
#29 ·
This is what the problem was. A badly machined notch.


Image
 
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