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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting bloody cold out now so just ordered the KTM OEM set from Judd Racing and wondered if anyone has already fit them. The set comes with the heating elements, a wiring loom, switch assy and throttle body. I also ordered a set of replacement grips and, dare I say it, a set of KTM muffs just in case...
Reading the existing threads I still have some queries;
1. What's the best way to insulate the bare metal handle bar on the clutch side to prevent heat loss? I've seen adhesive tape, heat shrink wrap and Boyesen flex grips used.
2. If using heat shrink can the original clutch grip be used or does the increased tube diameter require a throttle side replacement grip?
3. What is the best grip glue to use bearing in mind the exposure to the heat?
4. Once fitted, can the alternator produce enough power with them set on full?
5. Are they any good with enduro gloves but no muffs at around 5c?
Hoping to get some good info if we can just get past the muffs.....
Cheers
 

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I have them on my 400 exc and they work really well

1. I didn’t bother to insulate the clutch side it just takes a little longer to get hot Not really a problem
2 I tried using heat shrink but couldn’t get it too stay in place when fitting the std grip
3 just used std RFX stuff
4 yes no problem
5 I don’t use or have muffs and find the heat is enough not sure I’ve used at -5c though. Was using mine in France last week temp was around 3c , lovely.

the low setting is useless just not enough heat IMO

cheers Lark09
 

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I have them on my 400 exc and they work really well

1. I didn’t bother to insulate the clutch side it just takes a little longer to get hot Not really a problem
2 I tried using heat shrink but couldn’t get it too stay in place when fitting the std grip
3 just used std RFX stuff
4 yes no problem
5 I don’t use or have muffs and find the heat is enough not sure I’ve used at -5c though. Was using mine in France last week temp was around 3c , lovely.

the low setting is useless just not enough heat IMO

cheers Lark09
I’ve always used heat shrink on the clutch side of my bikes, the adhesive holds up well. If the bar surface is smooth, best to rough it up with some 180 grit. Then a quick dose of brake cleaner before fitting the adhesive heat shrink. Use the std supplied left hand grip.
 

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I spent the time removing the rubber (stanley knife and petrol to break them down) off of the bolt on grips so I was just left with the plastic tubes, then applied the heat pads and put on some normal grips.
Amazingly warm and easily removable, this is the third bike I’ve had the same set on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have them on my 400 exc and they work really well

1. I didn’t bother to insulate the clutch side it just takes a little longer to get hot Not really a problem
2 I tried using heat shrink but couldn’t get it too stay in place when fitting the std grip
3 just used std RFX stuff
4 yes no problem
5 I don’t use or have muffs and find the heat is enough not sure I’ve used at -5c though. Was using mine in France last week temp was around 3c , lovely.

the low setting is useless just not enough heat IMO

cheers Lark09
Hi Lark,
Thanks for that - very helpful. Interesting about not using insulation on the clutch side and that may save me a lot of hassle. How did you wire the earth and ground leads and did you use the three connector switch that comes with the KTM kit?
Oh, and I meant plus 5c, not minus 5c. It would take a lot of money or alcohol to make me venture out in sub zero...
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’ve always used heat shrink on the clutch side of my bikes, the adhesive holds up well. If the bar surface is smooth, best to rough it up with some 180 grit. Then a quick dose of brake cleaner before fitting the adhesive heat shrink. Use the std supplied left hand grip.
Thanks Nige, that's what I've seen on other posts, including using glue between the shrink wrap and bar, but I see you don't.
What is the purpose of the brake cleaner, to simply degrease the bar prior to fitting the shrink wrap? If so, what diameter shrink wrap do you use? I guess the closer the wrap diameter to the bar diameter, the more clamping force will be generated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I spent the time removing the rubber (stanley knife and petrol to break them down) off of the bolt on grips so I was just left with the plastic tubes, then applied the heat pads and put on some normal grips.
Amazingly warm and easily removable, this is the third bike I’ve had the same set on.
Cheers, I like the idea of being able to transfer the lock on grips to the next bike and surprised to hear normal grips will fit the clutch side lock on grip, which must be a bit wider than the bar. Lock on grips are much cheaper than another set of heated grips.
 

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Thanks Nige, that's what I've seen on other posts, including using glue between the shrink wrap and bar, but I see you don't.
What is the purpose of the brake cleaner, to simply degrease the bar prior to fitting the shrink wrap? If so, what diameter shrink wrap do you use? I guess the closer the wrap diameter to the bar diameter, the more clamping force will be generated.
i use the commercial adhesive lined/coated heat wrap, just as you say, buy it as close as you can to the bar diameter before you heat it. I just use the brake cleaner as a degreaser prior to assembly.
 

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Hi Lark,
Thanks for that - very helpful. Interesting about not using insulation on the clutch side and that may save me a lot of hassle. How did you wire the earth and ground leads and did you use the three connector switch that comes with the KTM kit?
Oh, and I meant plus 5c, not minus 5c. It would take a lot of money or alcohol to make me venture out in sub zero...
Cheers
The ground was attached to the triple clamp using one of the tapped bolt holes at the front, just make sure there is ground bonding strap from the frame to the triple clamp you don’t want the circuit running through the head stock bearings. I’m sure there will be one.
Yes I installed the 3 position switch, on the head light shield fore aft web, so I have low- off- high. You can use the indicator switch instead if you have one, it’s makes for a nice neat installation.
The low circuit ceramic resistor was mounted on top of the triple clamp just behind the speedo this acts as a heat sink. I used a high temp silicon sealant to mount it as it gets quite warm.
Yes I saw you meant 5c but I have been out in snow before and they do work well.

Cheers Lark09
 

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Cheers, I like the idea of being able to transfer the lock on grips to the next bike and surprised to hear normal grips will fit the clutch side lock on grip, which must be a bit wider than the bar. Lock on grips are much cheaper than another set of heated grips.
I've done the same with mine. Hkad a nice set of grips for summer racing, then my DIY lockon heated grips for winter. Back when it was still cheap to get bits from 24mx, there were some grips on sale for 2 quid a pair, so I bought 2 pairs to use the 2 throttles, I probably wouldn't bother if buying £15 decent grips to do it though. I've gotine wired through a relay which is only live when the engine is running so I don't leave them on and run the battery down. I've also found that the cheap switch I used does go a bit dicky if not used for a while (ie all summer) then sometimes the switch can look on, but not be sending power to the grips. I added a little 12v led in parallel to the grips so I now if they're on or not. It's pretty annoying jumping on the bike on a cold morning and percevereing for a few mins with cold hands only to realise 10 mins later that the heaters were off!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've done the same with mine. Hkad a nice set of grips for summer racing, then my DIY lockon heated grips for winter. Back when it was still cheap to get bits from 24mx, there were some grips on sale for 2 quid a pair, so I bought 2 pairs to use the 2 throttles, I probably wouldn't bother if buying £15 decent grips to do it though. I've gotine wired through a relay which is only live when the engine is running so I don't leave them on and run the battery down. I've also found that the cheap switch I used does go a bit dicky if not used for a while (ie all summer) then sometimes the switch can look on, but not be sending power to the grips. I added a little 12v led in parallel to the grips so I now if they're on or not. It's pretty annoying jumping on the bike on a cold morning and percevereing for a few mins with cold hands only to realise 10 mins later that the heaters were off!
Yep, I may go for a second set of lock-ons if I can find a pair cheap enough. Wiring wise I think I'll go through the indicator switch to avoid an additional switch around the lamp being exposed to the elements.
Cheers gents.
 

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I run mine from the AC lighting circuit so don’t have an issue with running the battery down as only live when the engine runs. Not sure if you have that option on a 2017 bike.

Cheers Lark09
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I run mine from the AC lighting circuit so don’t have an issue with running the battery down as only live when the engine runs. Not sure if you have that option on a 2017 bike.

Cheers Lark09
That’s made me realize I’m not clear on how to wire it up! I’ve heard there’s a spare power line in the loom behind the headlamp unit somewhere and thought I’d rummage around to find that using the wiring diagram in the manual. But of course, there’s no diagram in the owners manual…
While I try to source a repair manual. can you tell me if yours has a battery and if so, where you took the power from exactly?
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Yes I have a battery but it’s only used for starting, cooling fan and indicators all the lights are AC. I use the yellow wire to pick up the AC supply for the lights which is located behind the headlight.
I don’t know if the wiring diagram has changed over the years, it may well have if you have led lights which I guess would be fed from the dc side.

I’m sure if you ask on here someone will have one or know where to get one.

Cheers Lark09
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes I have a battery but it’s only used for starting, cooling fan and indicators all the lights are AC. I use the yellow wire to pick up the AC supply for the lights which is located behind the headlight.
I don’t know if the wiring diagram has changed over the years, it may well have if you have led lights which I guess would be fed from the dc side.

I’m sure if you ask on here someone will have one or know where to get one.

Cheers Lark09
Mine is the same I’m sure and that also ties in with my understanding of using a yellow wire. although it’s not a spare in this case. I’ll put a multi tester across the yellow lead to confirm AC and crack on.
Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Most wire into the headlight
if your running an LED its better as less power is drawn

ill see if i can get some pics as i'm in the middle of doing mine (although i wish i didnt start)
Thanks very much - I think I’ve got a general idea now but pics would be great. Can’t have too much info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks again. I’ll check these in the light tomorrow. I can’t see clearly from the photo but where did you cut into the yellow leaf which goes up to the light switch I think?
 
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