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Discussion Starter #1
any thoughts on this? had loads of pds bikes and never really liked the handling. even after a revalve.

every one I've owned has had headshake at high speed and I've felt in turns the rear end is 'hinged' if that makes sense. like the rear is being dragged round.
perhaps was just a set up issue but sag was right, as was the spring . I'd spent some time with it and could never get comfortable.

the only bike I rode which felt great had a trax fitted.

I love the revalved ohlins on my linkage bike so tempted to go that route.

I'd like a trax too however I keep reading about failures after 30 hours as the shock gets dirt in it too easy.
anyone with any experience with these?
 

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20hrs into a full rebuild and not leaking yet... it was leaking like a sieve when I tried it after I first got it though. Just a bouncy ride back to the car. Bought it knowing it needed serviced.

Heard they are high maintenance... yet to find out. Interested to see what others say.

That aside, the Trax shocks are the bollocks. Cuts the pumping at the rear, especially on the big bore smokers when they come on the pipe. Buy it.


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I had a Trax. Dr Shox had removed/bypassed the trax system so it couldn’t fail. It was a superb shock. Increased grip, feel and tyre life. Mega comfy. It was important to get sag right. Not KTM book numbers only as a loose guide/start point. Do it by feel after using book numbers. I’d buy again, made my xcw feel like a linkage bike.

I also had a bladder and revalved stock shock. Again Dr Shox. That was also excellent. Very close to the trax performance in tech terrain but I’d say the bladder performed better on flat courses/tests like at W2D.

I’ve now got the husky. The linkage dulls all signals from the rear end in a good way. I like it even with the stock shock. Feels like a trials bike to ride. Lazy with increased drive over rougher stuff. Not as accurate and harder to turn in tight trees but get to a rocky or root infested hill and it’s better. I’ll be getting this over to Dr Shox though as I’m certain it can be improved a lot.

PDS= more nimble. Better on flatter type track courses. Nothing poking out underneath. Dead easy to remove shock.

linkage= Less nimble. Better in whoops, technical terrain and calmer feel. Linkage doesn’t get bashed if you keep weight on the pegs. Weight pressing down draws the shock linkage up into the bike. PITA to maintain linkage and remove shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
all good info. sounds like a modified trax is the way forward. a pds which handles like a linkage bike is what I'm after.

any reviews on the ohlins?
 

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Is there ever a suspension that doesn’t need modifying by a tuner, and only this said tuner is the man to do it. I think they all like the sound of their own voices and have big egos. Or is it just me ?
 

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No suspension NEEDS tuning but all suspension can be made more suitable for the individual rider. Of course, it's in the suspension tuners interest to say how shit it is stock and how awesome they can make it. Because almost no-one understands how suspension works, it's easy for them to hoodwink people. However, we pretty much all know that suspension is the most important bit on the bike, after the useless lump of meat on top of it...
 

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i didn't like the 'dead vague' feeling of my Trax shocks,ending up disabling the Trax rebound thing
WP shocks aren't bad after a revalve
didn't try the Ohlins shocks
Kayaba defo for me next time,real quality materials and build
 

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Is there ever a suspension that doesn’t need modifying by a tuner, and only this said tuner is the man to do it. I think they all like the sound of their own voices and have big egos. Or is it just me ?
Al sums it up well. Nothing “needs” tuning as an essential but it makes a difference. That’s why clickers are there. Tuning the internals or buying fancier hardware won’t improve your natural inbuilt speed but it will help get rid of feelings you don’t like that ruin confidence. Finding a tuner who understands what you want and what your telling them is a nightmare. If that info is confused then you are wasting money. You also have to accept it may take more than a one shot go and you may also have a desire for suspension to work in a way it can’t.

When active suspension comes to the dirt bike world it’ll help. Just like TPI has removed endless jetting threads. TPi means many are far happier from day one. It’ll happen with suspension to one day....
 

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I am more familiar with road bikes where often the setup is really shit from the factory and / or low quality.

Over the years I have had many bikes modified, either rework of stock shock / forks or replacement shock (and reworked forks)

The results have varied from night and day different to slightly improved, but never have I had a bike come back worse, taking into account costs and how long I kept most of these bikes it was worth the expense.

As an ageing rider that is new to off-road I am unlikely to get a huge amount of benefit from spending money on my FE350, it is so far ahead of my abilities as to be a joke, plus I go out a handful of times a year and ride it like an old woman.

I am happy to play with sag and clickers, but I find it much harder to setup an off-road bike as the terrain is so varied and constantly changing, and to put it into perspective I found my DRZ400S to be perfectly adequate and the FE takes that to a new level somewhere in the stratosphere.
 

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Good summary Al... I was ready to go mad with my bike and the guy I was looking to use talked me down a bit saying you could dial out that hard/soft feeling for soft/firm with a revalve/reshim, to give something more confidence inspiring. He’s factory trained in WP and Showa though.

Then I got hold of a set of cone valve forks from a riding buddy which I knew he was the last person to service after the last local shop ballsed them up. The planets aligned and a deal was done.


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How many people don't even touch the clickers etc?

I've spoken to lots of people who have got their suspension back from being revalved/resprung and said it's shit.... when asked if they've had a go at the clickers etc often say... no, i don't know what to do.
 

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I sent my AER fork's for a revalve, tbh they didn't feel better but I told myself that they were, anyway after 2 years they were leaking air very slightly so I had them rebuilt, asked the tuner to look at what had been done as I was interested, he reported they had not been touched, everything was as standard never been apart, I was so pissed off, especially as I'd thanked the original turner as they were "better" he must have been laughing into his cuppa, anyway the rebuider said he'd done a lot of them, and seeing as I'd used and recommended him several times he did them for me... For free. Said he had to wait for a part as it's modified on an exchange basis, no charge. And the results were night and day, I softened the compression from his settings by 2 clicks and they are now very good..
 

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I always wait and watch with suspension work. I’ve zero faith in delivery people/networks from work stuff. There’s no way I’d send my most treasured possessions unless I’m with them. The ideal is also having a tuner watch you ride. Most people are not honest enough (tuner and rider) for the stars to align for everyone. If you feel no difference after work (good or bad) then it surely means nothing has been done and you’ve been had or it was the wrong direction.
You always hear good and bad comments about nearly every tuner to. Everyone is after a magic fix but sometimes you just need to look at yourself and be honest. I’m not fast or a ninja rider. On this basis my suspension is solely set up for comfort and predictable handling. Any fast rider can’t stand it. Any slow rider loves it.

Recently I’ve started doing forks myself trying to understand what does what. I seem to have a basic understanding in my CC, Sphere and now Conevalves. the CVs are the easiest to work on as no bladder/needle required.
 

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Pindie, most people don't spend time setting the bike up and twiddling the adjusters, they just say "it's shit", it's not surprising it's shit as you know the difference of a couple of clicks on some CC forks is massive.
 

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How many people don't even touch the clickers etc?

I've spoken to lots of people who have got their suspension back from being revalved/resprung and said it's shit.... when asked if they've had a go at the clickers etc often say... no, i don't know what to do.
Where are these clickers ? Do I need to buy some for my bike ?
 

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Yes you do need some, i've got some new ones, 300 quid and i'll even fit them for free
 

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stump is ripping you off, you will find the clickers at the end of your thump and second finger, press and click 2nd finger against inside of hand , you will hear the click, adjust as necessary
 
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