Anything that isn't 2k is going to be a compromise, and will likely dissolve at the sight of the smallest spill. You can get 2k paint in a can, the hardener is inside a breakable vial and has to be well shaken, purely for pro use though. You really don't want to be breathing that stuff in, so use it outside on a still day.

 

From memory, the basecoat beneath the graphics was almost like a shrink wrap film rather than an applied paint.
Best of luck though because, as we know, they are tricky things to deal with. I guess it would need to be permanently flexible.

 

Cyanide in 2k if l recall correctly ☠?

Thanks for the advice - as its for pro use, any idea where l might get some?

 

Hi David - sadly its the tank l got from you ..... its done well for years, but a couple of 'having to' fills with e10 have given it measles.

It only ever seems to be the 950 sm tanks and the early 950 adv tanks that suffer - the americans seem to suffer the worst, and go to the greatest lengths to try and combat it, most of which seems to involve tank lining and plastidip coatings. Not for me!

 

David - l think it is a paint, it certainly chips off like a paint. The plastic (its a plastic nylon compo apparantly) itself is dark grey.

 

If l was gifted, l would replicate the tank in aluminium!

 

I know a man that can make you one for a reasonable fee, he does alot off TT,WSB and MGP bikes

 

It lasted longer than I would have expected but it was sadly always inevitable, I suppose.
I went for the film thought as it bubbled but stayed flexible.
I recall that orange bits were coloured in but black was painted over but wouldn’t have applied to the tank. Even Crispy’s graphics succumbed within a year to the dreaded E.

I do still miss my SM though, but I would had to get it lowered nowadays. My inside leg measurement seems to have shrunk by an inch or two.

 

Don't know about fuel proof paint, but you can buy clear lacquer from model shops. i.e. paint your model with normal spray paint then fuel proof lacquer, but I guess that does not help with a plastic tank breathing.

 

Speak to a local auto paint supplier, if they are decent they'll have an idea what to use. (there's 2 within 15 mins of mine, one is completely useless and the other is the opposite..)

 

Good call on paint supply place - l dismissed both nearby bodyshops as they are both crap.

 

I'd hand it over and let them do it, they should be well prepared for painting various plastics, as cars have had some amount of plastic bodywork since the 1980s.

Rattle cans can give a good finish, but a professional paint shop would be guaranteed to make it an exact match, and be aware of how flexible it needs to be.

Painting is not easy, it's all in the preparation, if you were to mask the tank yourself, then there wouldn't be any issue with dirt ingress.

 

I hear what you say, but l have zero faith in any trade doing a proper job and therefore prefer to diy unless its impossible to do otherwise.

 

You can buy 2k paint in a can as mentioned above.
Look online. The tech behind it is having to pierce the bottom of the spray can before you shake it for the specified time.
The paint suppliers will make up any colour for you.
Not cheap, but a whole lot cheaper than farming the job out.
Doing it at home on a still day away from anyone with the best mask available is key.
If you've not sprayed with a can before, watch a few videos.. not difficult.
Prep. Well. Use a wax/silicon remover/ tack cloth... and go for it.
You'll have a shock at how good you can get the finish.

Edit: Quick search:

One Stop Paints

Custom aerosol spray paint cans, litre tins, tester & repair pots.

www.riolettcustomaerosols.co.uk

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

Thats brilliant - thanks for the linky

 

From a can..

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

Neat.

 

Let’s face it, getting a monkey to diy it will be better than how an ethanol‘d SM tank looks.
Even with the extra thick super-sticky Crispy graphics on it, it looked like it had an horrendous case of boils when I px’d it with Premier Bikes.

 

I'll take that as a compliment David!

 

I know you will obsess about getting it spot on.
But they do look awful once bubbled.

 

I'll just need to be careful with sanding to not remove too much material and keep it clean - acetone helps clean and 'close off' the pores apparantly - l will also then inspect for any potential failures, fill, then 2k paint using the product above. I might even leave the base unpainted.

Looking at the fuel cap, the breather hose outlet is very small - l will look at enlarging that so fumes have a better exit.

And all because of a small number (3 or 4 max) of E10 fills.

I will need to ensure that l use BP E5 from now on entirely or carry Stabil for those E10 unplanned fills.

Bloody ethanol, but its only the 950 sm / 950 adv tank that suffers.

I understand from a dealer mech friend that some Triumph tanks are also suffering.

 

I never realised the black tanks were painted, just thought they we plastic? So are we saying the SE tank is painted as well?

 

The SE tank appears to be a different kettle of fish - no fuel damage at all, so l assume its a different plastic. My SE tank is blemish free, so l cant confirm if its painted or not.

Saying that, from what l have found, its only the 950 SM and early 950 ADV tanks that can suffer.

KTM painted some early plastics whilst some were just black plastic (even if both came from acerbis) no consistency!

 

My 950SMR tank is still good, as was the SE when I sold it.
You’ll need to use a flexible plastic 2 pack primer as well or the top coat won’t stick.

 

Or convert to supermoto with the kit from that bloke in Oz? [emoji41]

 

Hi John - l am talking about the 950 sm tank. AFAIK, the tank problem is just with the 950 sm and early 950 ADV's. Other bikes l have (inc the mighty se) are fine. Phew.

 

Yeah I get that, doesn’t seem to affect the SMR or SE (which is almost the same tank?)

I guess you’ve seen this?

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