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Discussion Starter #1
....right chaps and lasses! The weather is turd and it doesn't look to be getting much better any time soon so in the mean time I'm gradually ticking off jobs to get ithe Duke looking ship shape.

Next job is to replace the tatty looking engine bolts and a few others. My question is will this assorted tub of bolts be ok for the job? Here's a linky: Bolt Linky

Don't panic, I'm not going to pepper it in orange bolts....:eek:
 

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Dont think these will be ne good for replacing engine blots m8y only fairings etc, but think your better off with stainless for those!! alloy do tend to corrode esp when screwed into steel it`s something to do with cross contamination and sacroficial corrosion :dozey: zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz lol
 

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A couple of years back I put stainless button heads all over mine (bar the engine) And every time I need to touch one I'm glad I did. Highly reccomended.
 

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Get them plated for a couple of quid. Moby had loads done on his 250F and it looks mint. Nothing worse than non standard heads on bolts IMHO.
 

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A note of caution - if you 'upgrade' the materials specification (not the size or finish) of a fastener on your bike - be aware that you may have to also compensate for the recommended torque settings. This especially applies to your brakes and suspension components - mild steel, alloy, titanium and stainless fasteners all 'stretch' differently as you tighten them up - so be careful if you are changing all your fasteners for cosmetic reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A note of caution - if you 'upgrade' the materials specification (not the size or finish) of a fastener on your bike - be aware that you may have to also compensate for the recommended torque settings. This especially applies to your brakes and suspension components - mild steel, alloy, titanium and stainless fasteners all 'stretch' differently as you tighten them up - so be careful if you are changing all your fasteners for cosmetic reasons.
Most of the bolts are being replaced because they are showing signs of corrosion and the rest just look scruffy. I thought I may as well change them all for a brand new set.

If different material stretch different amounts, how do I compensate for this? I was going to just go by the book on how much to tighten and whether to use loctite or not?!

A once simple job now has a new facet to think about. I'm thinking of just getting a new set of OEM bolts from Leisure Trails...if I go down this route, I suppose it won't be a problem.
 

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Most of the bolts are being replaced because they are showing signs of corrosion and the rest just look scruffy. I thought I may as well change them all for a brand new set.

If different material stretch different amounts, how do I compensate for this? I was going to just go by the book on how much to tighten and whether to use loctite or not?!

A once simple job now has a new facet to think about. I'm thinking of just getting a new set of OEM bolts from Leisure Trails...if I go down this route, I suppose it won't be a problem.
The main worry is where safety critical components such as brake calipers/sprockets or stress sensitive components such as cylinder heads are held on with non-std (OEM spec) fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The main worry is where safety critical components such as brake calipers/sprockets or stress sensitive components such as cylinder heads are held on with non-std (OEM spec) fasteners.
I think I'm jet going to get a new set of oem bolts. Cheaper than fancy ti bolts and less cheesy than Ali anodised jobs. I also don't like the idea of a mechanical failure due to a bolt under more stress than it was designed to cope with.
 

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When you come round to sort that carb out ill shown you which bolts these guys mean and the ones you can changes easily OEM ones will still cost a fair amount.
 
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