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Sealing brake lines after removing the calipers?

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334 views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  TrouserSnake  
#1 · (Edited)
I going to remove the calipers from my 990 soon and I'm thinking about trapping the fluid in the hoses to avoid having issues refilling them (due to there being a 2 to 1 split section under the headlight).

Is it worth doing, and if so how would I do that?

I'm thinking a cable tie on the lever will close up the master (as it closes the reservoir vent), that will stop the line emptying as soon as I remove them. Then maybe elevate the lines after removing them so gravity keeps the lines full of fluid.

What do you think?
I've never done this on a twin caliper setup so I don't know how much of pain it would be to fill once fully drained, hence I'm trying to avoid finding out.
 
#3 ·
You could just fit a plain nut and bolt with a pair of fibre or rubber washers through the banjos. You'll have to bleed them anyway when you refit and I'd tape a plastic bag over the ends to keep any stray drips off your paintwork.
Unless you can elevate the ends of the lines above the level of the reservoir they'll drain unless sealed. I have a Venhill vacuum bleeder which takes all the hassle out of bleeding fluid lines.
 
#5 ·
You might need some ptfe tape on the threads....

When bleeding the system, if you can, use something to keep the pistons pushed back as it reduces the space that air can be trapped in
 
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#9 ·
Not worth it, and I think a bad idea. Just buy a mitivac and bleed them properly.
I'm trying not to buy yet another tool that is used once and then takes up space on the shelf.
But if it my method fails I'd just buy a vac unit, probably an ebay special.

DBTV Jay has a good vid on using them
Ah, that'd be useful.
 
#10 ·
I flush my hydraulic fluids every year or as soon as they go dark. When brake fluid gets heat-blackened it becomes corrosive to seals. With three bikes that means a vacuum bleeder is no ornament. And if you're taking a bike to a dealer for a service to get the book stamp, servicing the brakes at home and flushing the fluids yourself takes a useful chunk off the bill.
I rear trail-brake a lot on my 1190 so the rear brake fluid goes dark quite quickly. It's very handy to be able to flush it quickly and cleanly. When a job's easy it doesn't get neglected.

Is Dark Brake Fluid Bad? (Black Color) – Vehicle Fixing
 
#11 ·
I flush my hydraulic fluids every year or as soon as they go dark. When brake fluid gets heat-blackened it becomes corrosive to seals. With three bikes that means a vacuum bleeder is no ornament.
I wouldn't use a vacuum bleeder for that, I regularly flush my brake fluids manually. It's easy to do and also pretty quick, no need for a special tool.
 
#14 ·
Don't know what size the reservoirs are on the Superduke. The ones on my SMT were minute, especially the clutch, and a vacuum bleeder would have sucked it dry in a second. And as I'd fitted an Oberon slave it reverse bled very easily so it wasn't necessary, plus it used mineral oil so I was less bothered about making a mess. I wouldn't normally bother using a vacuum pump on clutches because they're usually easy but I had an ongoing clutch pressure problem on my 1290 SDR and that was always a bit of a pig to bleed so it certainly helped with that. The pots on both my Ducatis are quite large so they work well with a bleeder.
I find the main advantage isn't so much speed but the way it forces stubborn air bubbles out of awkward spots which you often get in brake lines. Sometimes a pump of the lever doesn't shift a bubble far enough from where it's lodged and it creeps back between pulls.
@stumo 's tip of fully compressing the pistons to eliminate air pockets there is a good one.
 
#15 ·
I borrowed my mates mityvac a few weeks ago, couldn't get all the air out though, lever was still spongy. Did it the normal way in the end. Problem is they suck air in round the threads of the bleed nipple, especially if the threads are nice and clean. Pressure bleeders work quite well in my experience though.
 
#16 ·
Pressure bleeders work quite well in my experience though.
Indeed, either reverse fill or pressurizing the reservoir.
It's mainly the split section I'm concerned about though and would like to avoid having to take it all off.

I once had a hell of a time bleeding my drizzle after fitting a brake switch to the master, I think in this instance the switch just refused to fill so if I ever do that again I'll try to fill it before installing it.