Is the rim damaged? I've never had an issue, but I do put slime in too (belt and braces).

 

The rim might have the odd scuff but I would not say that it is damaged, it is an old tyre that I've re-fitted. The leaks are very small but are in several places, I guess I could take 'slime' as the first answer to my question!

 

With Tubliss the seal isn't between the tyre and the rim, it's between the red liner and the inner side of the tyre. Leaks are usually either damage on the lip of the red liner, damage on the inside of the tyre, or one I've had a few times, weapy valves. I ended up buying a bag of 20 or so valve inserts and changing them everytime I changed tyres.

Back to the other part of the question though, I'd say a tyre soap would help it seal, and I know a few guys on here have been using it. I just use slightly watered down silicone spray and it's always worked. One thing you could try, is to only pump the inner liner up to about 40-50 psi and then try pumping the outer chamber up to the same and it should start farting a bit of air out, it may help seat it all a bit better and squirt any lube in to any gaps.

If it turns out I'm speaky bollacks, I'm sure Pindie will be along soon to put us all right!

 

I use silicone spray on the bladder & liner , slime in the tyre & around the beads . I have 3 sets of tubliss all hold air in the tyres but the bladders do loose air about 10 -20 psi per month. I have read that putting slime in the bladder stops them losing air but haven't tried it

 

I just ended up on soapy water. Lasts longest and least messy. Slime works and can be done fairly cleanly but in the end seems overkill. Silicone spray eventually gets absorbed but the rubber (or disappears) and then cause leaks. Definitely check the lips on the red liner, if it has been nicked by a lever you can super glue any flap down or use a dab of quality silicone sealant to smooth over any surface blemish, obvs let it cure before fitting. Don’t forget that there’s 100psi pushing air out so damaged bits are usually obvious. Good point on valve cores. Keep them clean and swap if they leak.

stumo posted a link to some tyre soap. I think it needed to be anything but a paste one as a paste dries and then leaks.

 

I used Tubliss for years aand never found a tyre that was 100 % tight. All of them lost air, some quickly, some slowly. Even on brand new rims. Then I started to use slime and one day when I changed my MTB tyres to tubeless I found this:

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It made all my tyres air tight and it is water-soluble so its easy to clean up the mess when changing tyres. 180ml for a rear tyre.
In the meantime I use Michelin mousses and have no issues...

 

Cheers for the info!

Are you stating that you need 180ml each time you change the rear tyre?

 

In my brief experimentation with tubliss, l recall that mousse lube was also on the list with wash up, silicone, slime and tyre soap. There was also a volvo tyre lube mentioned l think.

 

Had issues with new tyres just the sidewall mold being shit. Had a new EF07 refuse to seal. Put another EF07 on after multiple mounts of the other and never had a single issue with that one.

Had least issues with Mitch Starcross and new Mitch medium.

Before I gave up on fronts which didn’t really do much they would leak most of the time a bit so slime in them and never had a leak since but I’ve got mousse in the front now.

Slime was a green bicycle one from Halfrauds. Did the job. Rinse out on tyre change if ya wanted a clean install.

 

I use tyre soap (Rema Tip Top) on everything, tyre, liner, rim etc. As Smiler has mentioned, some tyres seem to leak more than others. Slime works ok, don't use Stans, it doesn't last at all in motorbike wheels/tyres but does in bicycles, which it's marketed for.
I currently have a Shinko front that seems to keep it's pressure ok...my bike hasn't been touched for 6 months and it's got 5psi (runs on 9) and 50 in the bladder (110 usually), didn't check the rear but it's flat, it's a EF07 that usually went flat after a couple of days, they all seem to but I CBA using slime as it doesn't bother me to pump it to 4 or 5 psi. Michelins tend to keep the pressure well and i think it's down to the construction as some tyres have hard ridges inside and others don't or have smaller/softer ridges.

EDIT... changing tyres just takes a bit more thought/being careful than tubes and mousses, be careful you don't nick the liner, check the inside of the tyre bead (where the liner will go) for nicks and other things that won't help with sealing. When inflating a new tyre i usually pump the liner to around 50psi and the tyre to 40 or so then the liner up to the usual 110 and leave it like that till i need to use it.

 

Try OKO tractor tyre slime! Its heavy duty. I use it in my exc tubes. Cheaper and better tham normal slime IMO.

 

Will the tube deflat if a nail punctured it? Also how much do you put in and does it gum up the valve when letting air out?

 

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Now you tell me! Last night I purchased a bottle of slime from ebay for twice the price of the stuff that you have posted a link to! Anyway there's always next time!

Thanks for the link

 

Its defo nail proof. I use 1 bottle to do 4 tubes. When you first fill, you need to blow away the oko from valve stem so valve core can seat properly.

 

Mousses obsolete👍

Edit: Will bang a nail in test as per your advice if it goes down I’ll pm yu. It’s £50 for that pm.😁

 

It doesnt gum up valve if you have valve between 9 and 3 oclock.

 

I tried oko when fitting a new front tyre & tubliss , smeared some around the tyre bead & poured some in the tyre. I found it too sticky and had trouble getting the tyre to seat out on the bead. Not using it as intended obviously but it always worked spot on with slime so I went back to paying the extra for it

 

I was thinking of doing something similar, I was going to smear slime around the outer edges of the red tubeliss 'thingie' and then some between the tyre and the rim, hopefully that will create two sealing areas for the low pressure air so that it does not get a change to escape. I guess if some slime is then poured into the low pressure valve it would also act as sealant if the type got a puncture whilst in use.

 

Sealing between the tyre and rim is useless, the red liner seals against the tyre
Once the air has come out of the tyre then it's gone. If you're going to use a sealant it needs to go inside the tyre (low pressure valve), you're best removing the valve when you do so you can actually get the stuff in!!!

You need something slippy on the inside of the tyre bead (where the red liner seals) so that the liner and tyre can slip against each other and that will help with sealing...use soapy water, silicone, tyre soap etc etc.

Slippy stuff on the rim and tyre (outer) bead is also beneficial as that also allows the tyre to slide into position.

Once the tyre is fitted to the rim and the liner is pumped up, let the air out of the tyre, remove the valve and add the sealant. Replace the valve and pump the tyre up to 30 or 40 psi, rotate the wheel/tyre in every which way to distribute the sealant, or just put the wheel back in the bike and ride it

 

Flat Cap?

 

Yeah, and wearing a flat cap too.....You don't have to even mention that Bollocks, it's a given....

 

I tip whatever I’m putting in the tyre - slime/soapy water in before I fit the last side onto the rim. Just stand the wheel up. Pull bead away from rim. Pour in 200ml or so. Fit final final side. Do the 360 degree bounce on the tyre vertical thing and then pressurise everything. Not failed me so far. Easier than messing with the valve core and no chance of threads or granules getting in the valve as the air going in keeps it clear.

 

I do exactly same ....then put 30psi in and leave to seal ....I use XT754 at 6psi and it'll hold at 6 no problem .....I think the key is ...shitloads of soapy water and high pressure for a few days to seal .....I used to fit tyre and set it at the riding pressure... they always leaked

 

Amazing how this goes round and round and round.

All I do is paint tyre paste all over the red liner and inside and outside of tyre bead then fit it. It's never failed to seal first time with that method (thanks stumo).

It seems that any method that uses enough lube will work. The key as has been said many times is making sure there is no damage to the red liner.

One of my fronts was leaking and after a couple of complete refits I found a small bit of the ridge on the red liner had been shaved off. I whacked a load of OKO in and it's been perfect since.

So personally, I save the slime until I have a problem. As long as the tyre holds air for a full event I don't care if they go down over a week as I always check pressures before riding.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys, I was using diluted soapy water but I don't like the idea of that sitting inside the wheel for ages, the tyre was only going flat after about 3 days so it wasn't too bad but I just thought I'd ask on here to see if I could do anything better to hold the air in the tyre. The liner is in good shape as is the bladder, I'll clean everything up and try some slime.

 

I abandoned the idea of tubliss basically because despite repeated attempts - with lots of advice - l could not get the front to stay inflated. Rear was fine right from the start though.

The marmite of the tyre world.

 

So mousse is Vegemite? Superior?

 

Marmite is bad enough but Vegemite is just the work of the frikkin devil, how the hell anyone easts that shite is beyond me 🤢🤮🤢🤮🤢🤮

 

Black gold. On fresh white toast. 😛

 

I wouldn’t even use it as tyre paste!

 

Hi salt content = corrosion

 

Hi salt content = corrosion

In Vegemite or Marmite?

 

Both l reckon!