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I use motion pro also. Always been great with Tubliss.

My fronts pissing out the high pressure valve area from the tyre air. No idea. Doing my nut.
 

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I use motion pro also. Always been great with Tubliss.

My fronts pissing out the high pressure valve area from the tyre air. No idea. Doing my nut.
That's where my was pissing out from, but it was from the low pressure chamber and the high pressure.

Which motion pro levers are we talking about, they do bloody loads! I've got traditional looking spoons already. These ones look Michlinesque
35654


Or these?

35655
 

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View attachment 35590

So these bloody deflector blocks just keep splitting on me! It's getting to be that I have to replace them anytime a change the tyre.

This rear one has done about 15 hours I reckon.

Common to have wear on the inner bladder but I've started using silicone grease to lube it and it's helping I think. Plus I have small splits in two of my four red liners (sealed with super glue).

Bit annoying as I wouldn't ever change them but I don't think anyone else really gets this issue?

I run soft tyres (trials/Maxxis Trialmaxx) at 4-6 psi, I'm a bit of a lump, bit still, the only way I can see that happening is that the rim lock is being pushed towards the rim. Always torque it to 15nm after inflating the inner bladder...

So apart from going on a diet... What can be done?? Is it just the soft tyres at low pressure? I do smack the rear into logs and ledges and stuff but still..
I rekon more air in the tyre
 

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I wouldn't be surprised if I did it taking the old tyre off. I hate doing fronts.
The problem with the front wheel is that the drop centre is not really big enough to get the Tubliss system to sit in it and at the same time have enough room for the tyres bead. Without having the bead in the drop centre is is very hard to get the bead at the opposite side of the wheel over and off the rim.

In the thread below I posted up some pictures of some bead pushers that I made, you can buy something similar but I like making stuff...

 
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AL, i dont do the tyres the old BF does that..but i know he never takes red cover off ,he wipes it over ,fires a new tyre on does the rim lock up to the 12nm , we both use tubliss both have 2 sets of wheels never have that problem, maybe you should just leave it on wheel unless you need to change bladder? dont worry so much, ocd bladder checking :D ;) had a few punctures in wales on rocks but can count on fingers over i reckon 5 years of using tubliss..i dont slam flat out into stuff so it perfect for my riding...dont mention the moose:LOL:
Sorry to hear about your old boyfriend TQ.
 

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The problem with the front wheel is that the drop centre is not really big enough to get the Tubliss system to sit in it and at the same time have enough room for the tyres bead. Without having the bead in the drop centre is is very hard to get the bead at the opposite side of the wheel over and off the rim.

In the thread below I posted up some pictures of some bead pushers that I made, you can buy something similar but I like making stuff...

Never used anything but levers on the garage floor with a bit of ply & an old back tyre to sit it on
 

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Never used anything but levers on the garage floor with a bit of ply & an old back tyre to sit it on
Plenty of people do have issues with the front tyre.
 

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that's when the michelin levers come in ,take youre time keep pushing the tyre in the well
I use pro motion levers, the bead pushers that I made hold the bead in the drop centre whilst I lever the opposite side of the tyre off the rim. With the bead in the drop centre it means that can get the opposite side of the tyre over the rim with very little effort...Less stress on the wheel, the tyre, and me, this means that I am far less likely to catch the liner or bladder.
 
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The problem with the front wheel is that the drop centre is not really big enough to get the Tubliss system to sit in it and at the same time have enough room for the tyres bead. Without having the bead in the drop centre is is very hard to get the bead at the opposite side of the wheel over and off the rim.

In the thread below I posted up some pictures of some bead pushers that I made, you can buy something similar but I like making stuff...

Again silicone spray cheapo stuff is fine & slime. Tried oko instead of slime .cheaper but shite had a nightmare trying to fit a front too sticky, got there in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
For the tyre removal - Bead buddy opposite the rim lock. Start the removal the other side of the rim lock from the high pressure valve, about 4 spokes away. Then you need to carefully insert two or three levers a few inches apart. Each time, insert the lever and then gently pull back a bit. If you cannot immediately see the red liner then you have hooked it and need to release the lever and try again. That part is critical and can take some patience on the front.

I'd say this bit is the only "tricky" part of using tubliss. Everything else is pretty easy.
 

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That's where my was pissing out from, but it was from the low pressure chamber and the high pressure.

Which motion pro levers are we talking about, they do bloody loads! I've got traditional looking spoons already. These ones look Michlinesque View attachment 35654

Or these?

View attachment 35655
Top ones. Hook side slides in and under the tyre without grabbing red liner.

taking off I start close to high pressure opposite side to rim lock. If the high pressure valve moves at all you’ve got the liner. no movement and good to go.

I suspect my rimlock wasn’t tight enough and it’s moved.
 

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For the tyre removal - Bead buddy opposite the rim lock. Start the removal the other side of the rim lock from the high pressure valve, about 4 spokes away. Then you need to carefully insert two or three levers a few inches apart. Each time, insert the lever and then gently pull back a bit. If you cannot immediately see the red liner then you have hooked it and need to release the lever and try again. That part is critical and can take some patience on the front.

I'd say this bit is the only "tricky" part of using tubliss. Everything else is pretty easy.
Got a bead buddy never bother with it . I rekon I could run mc 360 rears at 70 on the road no worries at 0 psi ,havent tried yet on my rfs trackers at 5 if the tyres have soft walls put some air in
 

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I had a brief go at using tubliss. The rear was very straightforward, but the front - as outlined above - was a complete pita and would not seal whatever l did or used (oko silicone wash up liquid mousse lube tyre soap blood sweat tears) even with sage advice from mr pinder and mr neutech himself (the latter l emailed who 'reached out' and offered to talk me through it in my 'shop'). I figured on that basis that the system was a marmite that l didnt like. Since then, l have stuck with old fashioned tubes with mousse lube and oko (am l the first to mention inner tubes so far? .......) As far as l am concerned, the rear is easy, but the front is such a pita that it does not make the system an option for me. Frustrating really as the benefits of tbe system are obvious although in my experience not worth the hassle.
 

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Tubliss definitely isn’t for everyone. Even completely competent people do have a nightmare. I did myself once. Mrs was badgering me about how little time I had “to be messing about” because we were going out. I was changing front tyres ready for a ride next morning....

I was rushing and not thinking. It ended up taking far longer and I nipped an inner core and caught the red liner! All because I just wasn’t in the right frame of mind.

Tubliss can be a tricky little monkey but when everything clicks they are superb. The good far outweighs any bad.

Tubes are still perfectly viable. A HD tube is largely faultless so I see where you are coming from Ship. My thought on all these is start at tubes. If you frequently get pinch punctures move onto Tubliss if you want low pressure but travel faster. If you have a mare with Tubliss or are a fast/heavy/aggressive/clumsy rider then try mousses. There is a perfect system for all. The Tube rider has the most money left to spend on new kit. The Tubliss rider has the most grip. The mousse rider has the least chance of a puncture.

You pays your money, you take your chance....
 

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I had a brief go at using tubliss. The rear was very straightforward, but the front - as outlined above - was a complete pita and would not seal whatever l did or used (oko silicone wash up liquid mousse lube tyre soap blood sweat tears) even with sage advice from mr pinder and mr neutech himself (the latter l emailed who 'reached out' and offered to talk me through it in my 'shop'). I figured on that basis that the system was a marmite that l didnt like. Since then, l have stuck with old fashioned tubes with mousse lube and oko (am l the first to mention inner tubes so far? .......) As far as l am concerned, the rear is easy, but the front is such a pita that it does not make the system an option for me. Frustrating really as the benefits of tbe system are obvious although in my experience not worth the hassle.
thanks god I never tried Tubliss,i'm too much in the 'force it' way of changing tyres,I still damage tubes changing tyres
when I change tyres with mousses I know I wont fuck anything up and it's fit and forget
I love the fact that Tubliss gives amazing grip but I could never trust my skills or patience to use them properly
never had a problem with tubes but they can spoil your day on the trail
mousses aren't brilliant but they've always got me home and I can forget about them
 
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I'm gonna stick with Tubliss in the rear till it pisses me off enough.
Good idea, get a Tubliss in the rear and a mousse in the fron tyre. I think its a hard to beat combination...
 
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