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Any road use?


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No, i literally only ride at cowm these days with perhaps a couple of weekends on the IOM trail riding, but that hasnt happened as yet. The knarly feels a bit draggy due to its softness and i cant see it being great on the road but its just done another few hours of quarry work this weekend and its still gripping extremely well.I have also got a Gauntlet to test after this which is supposed to very much like a Mich medium but i reckon i will have a few more sessions with this before its done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
No, i literally only ride at cowm these days with perhaps a couple of weekends on the IOM trail riding, but that hasnt happened as yet. The knarly feels a bit draggy due to its softness and i cant see it being great on the road but its just done another few hours of quarry work this weekend and its still gripping extremely well.I have also got a Gauntlet to test after this which is supposed to very much like a Mich medium but i reckon i will have a few more sessions with this before its done.
I’ve only ridden there once and that was on a trials bike but I suspect the place is brutal on enduro tyre wear


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It’s fine if there’s some subtlety in throttle and clutch usage. It’s sitting on a steep hill stuck whilst just spinning the wheel that kills them. I think Petes about 6 days into the new tyre and it looked spot on today. My six days that came on the bikes still holding up well at about ten hours but will get swopped soon as it’s not a great tyre anyway imo. Much prefer the enduro medium front and a green stripe EF-07 or terraforce rear.

but I want to get the use out of these before binning.
 

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Big mousse in small tyre, what you need for a big bike or to make a mousse last
Automotive tire Tire Tread Synthetic rubber Wood

Would be hard work (like the rocky mountain video) and need to grow a few more arms to hold all the levers but easy with my bead buddy on steroids :LOL:
Crankset Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle fork Bicycle accessory


then easy to push the rim lock in with a proper lever point,;) rabacunda is half a job if you want to fit mousses that will last.
Need a different radious bead buddy on steroids for a front wheel.
 

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Big mousse in small tyre, what you need for a big bike or to make a mousse last
View attachment 45854
Would be hard work (like the rocky mountain video) and need to grow a few more arms to hold all the levers but easy with my bead buddy on steroids :LOL:
View attachment 45855

then easy to push the rim lock in with a proper lever point,;) rabacunda is half a job if you want to fit mousses that will last.
Need a different radious bead buddy on steroids for a front wheel.
What sort of PSI equivalent are you looking for on the big bikes?
 

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I inherited a set of Tubeliss on my used Beta X-Trainer. They had been fitted to the bike from new.
Had to switch it to trials tyres for a trial.
Watched a few youtubes. Changing the back was quite easy...easier then with a conventional inner tube.
But the front...oh dear. Just not enough room to get the (rather stiff because its 4-years-old) tyre beads to sit in the well so the tyre could be removed. Tried G-clamps, a big vice and even a B&D Workmate!
Resorted to brute force, and have now fitted a conventional (Michelin HD) tube and security bolt. The front didn't hold air very well anyway, and according to the previous owner it never did.
 

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I inherited a set of Tubeliss on my used Beta X-Trainer. They had been fitted to the bike from new.
Had to switch it to trials tyres for a trial.
Watched a few youtubes. Changing the back was quite easy...easier then with a conventional inner tube.
But the front...oh dear. Just not enough room to get the (rather stiff because its 4-years-old) tyre beads to sit in the well so the tyre could be removed. Tried G-clamps, a big vice and even a B&D Workmate!
Resorted to brute force, and have now fitted a conventional (Michelin HD) tube and security bolt. The front didn't hold air very well anyway, and according to the previous owner it never did.
That's why a lot of people run mousse fronts with tubliss rears. The tubliss benefits are less on the front tyre really. Much more chance of a puncture, no real need to run low pressures, bit of a faff to fit a new front tyre.... but at least they last pretty much indefinitely and when you do get a flat, you can carry on riding without any issues.
 

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I've started experimenting with Moussliss. Using tubliss with soft tyres and half a knackered mousse. Seems to work fine. I've gone down to 2 psi but not tried it with no air or the valve out but I'm confident that it will work fine.

It's not as fool proof as a mousse but it will mean punctures are irrelevant and I've never had or seen a tubliss bladder failure while riding so personally I'm willing to take that risk.

I only went mousses for Romania and for events like Valleys extreme anyway. I'd still use mousses at Romania but for valleys and other extreme events in the UK, it'll be a mousse front and a Moussliss rear now.
 

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Proof new tyres and mousses go on no problem with the right technique. This one’s even American and using just one man without fuss. I don’t use WD40 or put levers in to keep the tyre bead in the rim, I just use my knee but Morgan’s method is otherwise the same. Easy!
 
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I bought my mate’s rig for changing tyres when he was packing up, he’s a track day nut and fits and balances his own tyres. Got the balancing stand too, as well as 180/60 Pirelli to try, see how I like the profile Vs 190/55…

Have been wondering what it would be like for the dirt bikes… got slow puncture on the rear of the Gas Gas (rim band I think) and the rear EF-07 on the 300 is toast, need new rubber. Will post some pics up of the rig when I get back home…

Incidentally thinking of going back to 80/100 front and swapping to 110/100 for the summer… technical riding window is closed till October… MX and desert/XC loops till winter comes again.



Interesting that there’s a mix/match on the sizes on the US models (XC-W) running the 90/90 front with 110 rear, when the others run the 80/100 with the 140.

140 does feel a little odd on the MX track, go off the edge of the front long before the rear.

Also saw one of Billy Bolt’s videos and got a reply from him on the 90/100 front… uses it for everything, hard enduro, super enduro, other. Likes it and being able to smash through stuff which is why I picked it for the desert. Got no feel for how it is on the track, feel like the 140 rear affects the bike more.
 

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Proof new tyres and mousses go on no problem with the right technique. This one’s even American and using just one man without fuss. I don’t use WD40 or put levers in to keep the tyre bead in the rim, I just use my knee but Morgan’s method is otherwise the same. Easy!
Why is this moron wearing a gun while working on the tyres?
 
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Pindie, I have a question for you. I installed my new Tubliss today and this time I used tyre sealant. Was a bit of a mess as I used the sealant to grease everything. Fitting was easy, well I knew the process from a few years ago. Only thing that took long was to get the two valve stems in the right position, the one from the bladder always was at an angle when I pushed it into its hole, but finally I got it in straight. Tomorrow I'll see if the tyre or bladder loses pressure.

Whatever! When I used to use Tubliss I never ever had a puncture though I rode with 0 psi from time to time. I mainly used Dunlop MX53's and Mitas 754's. Today I asked myself in case of a puncture would the metal thingy (what's the farkin' term for it?) with which the turd is pushed through the hole be a threat for the red liner and its inner bladder? I mean that tool has a pointed end. Could it happen that the liner is punctured when I push the turd in?
 

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Pindie, I have a question for you. I installed my new Tubliss today and this time I used tyre sealant. Was a bit of a mess as I used the sealant to grease everything. Fitting was easy, well I knew the process from a few years ago. Only thing that took long was to get the two valve stems in the right position, the one from the bladder always was at an angle when I pushed it into its hole, but finally I got it in straight. Tomorrow I'll see if the tyre or bladder loses pressure.

Whatever! When I used to use Tubliss I never ever had a puncture though I rode with 0 psi from time to time. I mainly used Dunlop MX53's and Mitas 754's. Today I asked myself in case of a puncture would the metal thingy (what's the farkin' term for it?) with which the turd is pushed through the hole be a threat for the red liner and its inner bladder? I mean that tool has a pointed end. Could it happen that the liner is punctured when I push the turd in?
I've used the dog turds on a few tyres and although I was careful just in case, there's plenty of room when you poke it in to not hit the red liner. Make sure you use some tyre glue with them. Not just for the stickiness after it's installed, bi it helps alot as lube while poking it in.
 
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