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Interesting. I use a track pump to. No issues. Maybe how you inflate is as important as how you fit. 99% of the time it’s fitting damage leading to failure. At least that’s the case for me. Even letting the air out of everything hasn’t led to damage. They’ve always just blown back up.
 

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Interesting. I use a track pump to. No issues. Maybe how you inflate is as important as how you fit. 99% of the time it’s fitting damage leading to failure. At least that’s the case for me. Even letting the air out of everything hasn’t led to damage. They’ve always just blown back up.
hmm... maybe I'll switch back to a track pump then. My compressor only takes it up to about 80psi and then I finish it with the track pump. I've never had a leak since using the compressor so I'm sure it helps with that but it's not worth it if it is causing damage.
 

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Interestingly, I just got my replacement tubes from Dirtbikespec and they come with a significantly thicker and more robust red rubber grommet around the valve stem... So perhaps Nuetech have tried to address this,
 

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I have a collection of tubes to from various people. Most show splits and nips where levers caught the side of the tube. It’s always a pretty much identical wound no matter the origin of the tube. I’ve also had valves split like that. If caught early I have used super glue to hold it back together. A mega bodge yes but it does work if they haven’t actually popped.
 

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Firstly (and I'm sure this was my main issue) I noticed that the small nut on the valve stem (that snugs up to the rubber washer) sometimes (from new) has a gap of about 3-4 mm between it and said washer. To me that gap meant that when fitted and inflated, the base of the valve was elevated from the rim and pushed into the inner if that makes sense (perhaps try to imagine what would happen / how the valve would push up into the inner if you fitted and inflated the inner with the nut halfway down the valve stem to get what I mean).
I am glad you mentioned that. When I installed my new Tubliss I found said nut about 5mm away from the rubber washer. Took the instructions but couldn't find anything about it. Like you I tried to imagine what would happen if I installed it like it was in the kit and so decided to just finger tighten it against the rubber washer. After I had installed everything, I remembered that I still have an old (from 2016) Tubliss system on the shelf. So I checked it and there the nut was also in contact with the rubber washer.

I also noticed that the new version had a red, slightly thicker washer. The older one was black. But I have to say I never had a problem with the older Tubliss.

Like Al I use a compressor and a track pump. The compressor is small and can only provide 90psi. After installation and when the tyre is ready to be inflated I push it against the floor, turn it a bit, push it down again....then inflate the bladder to only 10psi and repeat the process. I think that helps getting everything perfectly in place. And if it doesn't help, it doesn't hurt either. Then I slowly inflate to the maximum the compressor can supply and then use the track pump for the last 10 or 20psi.
 

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Not really taken much notice of the last pages so i might miss something BUT...

Al, you must be doing something wrong to split all those tubes, i can't remember ever splitting one and i had the same inner in for a looong time...esp in the early days when it was difficult to get spares and i never thought to change it either.

Before a ride I always pump up the inner to 110 ish, i never check it as you can lose so much pressure doing that it's not worth it, just chuck the track pump on and top the pressure up.
 
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Not really taken much notice of the last pages so i might miss something BUT...

Al, you must be doing something wrong to split all those tubes, i can't remember ever splitting one and i had the same inner in for a looong time...esp in the early days when it was difficult to get spares and i never thought to change it either.

Before a ride I always pump up the inner to 110 ish, i never check it as you can lose so much pressure doing that it's not worth it, just chuck the track pump on and top the pressure up.
That's just it... I really don't think I'm doing anything wrong and I have helped many people solve issues with theirs so consider that I know what I'm doing. But yeah... There must be something amiss.

The only thing I can think of is that I change tyres a lot and maybe the repeated removal and reinflation accelerates the problem. Other than that, maybe I over inflate the bladder? But I use a track pump with a gauge and have checked with a pressure gauge..

Fuck knows..
 

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Maybe the valve isn't quite lined up perpendicular to the rim, and has some sideways pull on it**. I know it takes me a few goes to get it perfect when i've disturbed the liner and tube.

Once the tube is inflated nothing is going to move, so any mis-alignment** between the valve and rimlock will cause a pull on the valve.
Once the distance between the rimlock and valve is set you should be able to wiggle the liner and the angle of the valve shouldn't change, if it does it's not set properly..
 
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I'm pretty fussy about the valve alignment. I have had a few that were off line at some point but on the whole I keep them straight.

I think it's possibly just the black rubber washer not staying in place because I change tyres so often and don't remove the liner as often, so maybe the rubber washer gets dislodged and then the valve nut is on direct contact with the tube ..

Will be interesting to see what happens with these new red washers.
 

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Do you tighten a nut down on the valve?
 

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I always put a finger nut ring on the valve stem under/inside of the rim. I can’t remember where the rubber washer sits. I then have another finger nut ring backed up the thread outside of the rim under the valve cap. This means it can move if required but can’t get pulled back inside the rim itself. No idea if this is text book though.
 

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I just have the nut as you would with a tube, just under the valve cap
 

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Maybe the valve isn't quite lined up perpendicular to the rim, and has some sideways pull on it**. I know it takes me a few goes to get it perfect when i've disturbed the liner and tube.
I'm pretty fussy about the valve alignment.
Aligning the two valves took longer than installing the tyre last time. I did it exactly like the installation sheets describes but the bloody high pressure valve never was straight once I pushed it through the rim. And it was aligned super exactly before. I then started to offset it slightly and it needed three or four attempts but finally I was sure that there is no pull on it and it sat straight in its hole.
 
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Aligning the two valves took longer than installing the tyre last time. I did it exactly like the installation sheets describes but the bloody high pressure valve never was straight once I pushed it through the rim. And it was aligned super exactly before. I then started to offset it slightly and it needed three or four attempts but finally I was sure that there is no pull on it and it sat straight in its hole.
It's a pain to get exactly right, just little adjustments.... (y)
 
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😫😫😫

There has to be something out there that is like tubliss but doesn't fail!!???

I've lost count of the number of high pressure tubes that have split at the base of the valve. It's so annoying as it's happening on brand new tubes after only a few hours sometimes.

Otherwise, tubliss is amazing but it's so annoying having this issue all the time.

I hate mousses and I'm starting to get pissed with tubliss... I like the look of lucioli but I can see them getting proper punctures..

Wasn't Lee coming up with something??.
You are doing something wrong when installing.
My system is 4 years old and around 300 hours, both inner and outer are the original ones.
Running mousses now, around 40 hours on them, getting used to these, but still not the same grip and comfort.
Will probably revert back to tubliss and half mousse in when racing (more like wobbling in my case) in Romania.
 

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There’s the Nomousse system. Only air though. No mechanical rim lock.
never seen one nor do I know how it works. All I've heard is that you can't run it with super low pressures, but not sure if that is true. How does it work?
 
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