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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there , anyone know where I can get some tubliss neumatic rim lock in the uk ?
Preferably online sales...
Also anyone got experience with them ? Are they as good as they say?
Please
 

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Do you want the complete tubliss system or just the rim lock part?
If so I have a spare tubliss rimlock
 

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A few at the Brechfa Rally a few weeks ago had punctures. Ended the day for a couple (depends how severe or where on each 27 mile lap you punctured) One lad used the plug kit to repair and keep going. I was running HD tubes on MT21s at 18psi and OK but I aint one of the fastest. Rear looks fooked (120 miles from new) and has to come off to see how deep a couple of slits are. Sharp stones both single track and fireroads were pretty harsh for everybodys tyres.
 

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I use tubliss. Bought of e bay from America. Very good system run my rear at 4psi get loads of grip. I would prefer mousses but they are expensive. So this is the cheaper alternative at the moment. One advantage is I can run trials tyres on my 150xc. Easy to fit. Good idea to check pressure before you ride
 

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A few at the Brechfa Rally a few weeks ago had punctures. Ended the day for a couple (depends how severe or where on each 27 mile lap you punctured) One lad used the plug kit to repair and keep going. I was running HD tubes on MT21s at 18psi and OK but I aint one of the fastest. Rear looks fooked (120 miles from new) and has to come off to see how deep a couple of slits are. Sharp stones both single track and fireroads were pretty harsh for everybodys tyres.
Mousse are what you want in that situation surely?
 

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Atleast the tyre won't come off the rim if you get a puncture.

Use a sealant like slime or stans.

TMUK sells Tubliss or get it from the states...
 

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Been running Tubliss for well over a year with no problems at all. Had my first puncture a couple of weeks ago, I was running 5psi and just got unlucky, picked up a massive 6 inch nail that punctured both the tyre and inner core. Would not have been a problem if it was just the tyre because i run slime too but with the low pressure and massive long nail it went all the way through. 15mins later I was rocking again, new inner core and off I went. Bloody superb, love Tubliss. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys.... My heart is saying tubliss, my heads questioning it.
On the basis I'm only doing hnh not extreme enduros I think I may take a punt on the tubliss way!
 

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Been running Tubliss for well over a year with no problems at all. Had my first puncture a couple of weeks ago, I was running 5psi and just got unlucky, picked up a massive 6 inch nail that punctured both the tyre and inner core. Would not have been a problem if it was just the tyre because i run slime too but with the low pressure and massive long nail it went all the way through. 15mins later I was rocking again, new inner core and off I went. Bloody superb, love Tubliss. :D
15 my arse at least 30mins:rotflmao:

ill say it again use mousse ;)
 

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Well besides being quicker and easier to change a tire running tubliss, there are other positives compared to mousse. You can adapt your air pressure to the terrain and for those that like to use trial tires for super traction, Dirtbike magazine in the States tested tubliss in their March ´03 issue. They wanted to compare the traction of a trial tire to an offroad tire using tubliss. They did 300 miles using tubliss with ZERO air in the tyre (desert type). It didn't come off the rim, it wasn't destroyed (could still be used) and it had enormous traction very close to that of a trial tire. tubliss with the right kind of tire is in a whole new different league...
 

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Which tyres do you recommend or avoid?
The tyre used in the article is a Dunlop 739 Desert AT, but as far as I know this tyre is only available on the American market. I've searched high and low around Europe and nothing doing.
It's best to run tougher 6 ply tires, they'll handle the abuse at higher speeds in rough terrain, at a low pressure and the thicker sidewalls help to maintain the stability of the tyre. I'd suggest going into your local bikeshop and doing a test by placing your foot across both beads of a few tires and applying pressure to see how their sidewalls compare for stiffness. For starters, you are going to get way better results from a tyre that has much stiffer sidewalls. Tubliss does hold the bead in place and also stabilizes the sidewall, but the lower you go with your pressure, the more the tyre sidewalls have to work. So the stiffer the sidewall the better the results. I would also try to rather use any ED series tyres rather than of the M series.
I find that motocross tyres are be pretty thin and therefore give in too easily. I would try to avoid anything that squashes down too easily.
 

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Maxxis Maxcross IT works superbly with Tubliss at 5psi or even less.
Funny you you should mention Maxcross IT. One of my favourites, even before tubliss came along. I find they do work really well with tubliss, although I did have an indepth experience with them once.
I rode a 2 hour Cross-Country race using the IT's and around the one hour mark I got a flat on the front wheel. I felt something was different, but wasn't immediately sure what. When I realized the front was flat, I thought I could stop and plug it, or I could really try to get to the bottom of this tubliss myth. Well, needless to say, I put the hammer down and started to give it my all. And, it was so surprising how well the tyre still performed. I even managed to run my best lap time in the second half of the race on the flat front. However, towards the end of the race I could feel how the front was slowly beginning to get heavy. It was still working, but it was a very hot day and I suppose the tyre eventually began to give in. It certainly was amazing to ride for an hour on a flat front still having the control over the bike like I did.
 
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