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300 + mile loop into Wales. Meet 7:30. Dom's Bike Stop (crackin scran), Black Mt Pass, cup of tea and a slice of Bakewell flapjack at Mynydd Ddu Tea Rooms (crackin scran), 3rd tank of fuel somewhere on the 438. Home for tea, bike washed and chain lubed. Never took a layer off all day and had heated grips on full for most of it as I wore the wrong gloves expecting it to warm up.

Miss it, miss out!

Can anyone recommend some waterproof but racey gloves?
Not exactly racey,( Racey gloves look a bit naff on an old codger anyway), but a great glove. It has 2 chambers to it.

 

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What happened to your rally career?
The rally career hasn't started yet. But I've realised that a 690 is not the tool for the job and an enduro bike will be much more capable. I have a terrible problem with over biking myself and then paying the price of too much weight or too much power. So Ive sold 1290 as this again is just too much for UK crappy pothole-ridden roads and bought a shiny new 350. This will become the rally bike but it will just end up with a large tank, suspension work, and navigation kit, that's it. The 690 is morphing into a Supermoto which I think will be a much better weapon where I live and ride mostly.

I have a hankering to do Hellas.
 

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They spin round like yours appear to of done, the tank then has play in it, which in turn plays havoc with the radiator mounts, which then causes the rad to split at the top rad mounts. Especially if you pull lots of wheelies. Straight up, I read it on Facebook. (y)
I suspect Facebook is talking shite. But I removed my tank this afternoon and examined my tank mounts and radiator. And as it turns out, my radiator is leaking. So cheers for prompting me to take a look. But it has nothing to do with the tank mountings. Even with those frame spar buffers turned round the wrong way, the tank cannot come anywhere close to contacting the radiator. They only prevent about 3 mm of movement and if you remove them completely the tank will come nowhere near to contacting the rad nor exert any pressure through the side panels.

My rad is leaking from a damaged matrix below the nearside upper rad mount. The body of the rad isn't cracked. The uppermost matrix tubes are straight and true and there is no splitting, rupturing or damage of any kind around the upper rad mount. The matrix has suffered frontal damage of some kind and there is flattening to the fins. I noticed that the Evotech rad-guard has long since lost the fragment of stick-on foam that is supposed to isolate it from the matrix and the guard is in contact with the fins. Whether that's the cause, I don't know, but I'll get the rad re-cored without panic or getting arse-fucked by KTM for £500 for a new rad.

I don't do violent hey-look-at-me wheelies but sailing floaters over roads I know well are a fact of life and they are, or should be, smooth and completely harmless. BUT.. some of the moorland roads up here, though spectacular and fast are also very bumpy. I've had two weeks of back pain (my back is fucked anyway) from crashing the suspension (and my spine) on horrible slumps, and I've blown the fork seals on my 1190, so that may tell a story. And, when I had the SDR remapped I flew out on one of my favourite roads and got both wheels airborn on a crest I'd barely noticed before.

I don't think frame rubbers have anything to with it and I'm confident I haven't got a cracked radiator mount. But saying that, the upper brackets are shite. The two puny little 1" right-angle brackets are so small they transmit a point loading to the radiator body directly under the mounting point and the mounting point itself is a sloppy and rattling hard grommit that does next to nothing to absorb shocks. If the upper mounting points were fabricated from a single piece bracket that extended the whole width of the radiator to spread the load, rather than two little bits of shit that want to punch their way through the weakest surface over every bump, there would never have been any problems.
It's a fixable PITA but I don't think it's got anything to do with tank rubbers.
 

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Took the mrs and her little smoker out to ADMX yesterday, was windy AF yesterday… blawin’ a hoolie… but more interestingly, less dusty in AD than it was once we got past the first 500yrs to the track, inside it was fine.

Great night for BBQ in the end considering…

Jumps were fun… had to vector into the wind… hour on the suspension to break it in, job done. Enduro loop was fun, a crust on it from the wee bit of rain, would be fun in/after the rain. Confidence builder for the Mrs tickling round the kids track. Good time had by all.

 

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Spoke to Wrexham Radiators this morning.

Recommended from a previous thread on this forum from another member. Very helpful bloke called Ian Griffiths. He said the issue is constant vibration rather than bump shocks and it is the top-most tube nearest the vibrating mounts that fail. Apparently it's fairly common on various bikes. The solution will be to cut the top tube, repair the holes but leave the tube in place so that the rad doesn't have any visible gaps. One tube gone won't affect the cooling and the second tube is less susceptible to the vibration. He's done several of them successfully.

The rubber grommits on the top mounts are not a very tight fit and allow for too much movement, so I'll be looking to replace them with something better so it's not rattling about in them so much. And I'll attach some sort of permanent padding to the rad guard so there's no metal on metal contact there.
Shouldn't be very expensive to sort out.
 

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You're probably correct kestrel. Glad you spotted the little leak before an inconvenient time. I trust you spun the rad rubbers round anyway ;)

Cheers Miner. I assume you don't need them in sand land. What size are they 🤣🤣
 

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You're probably correct kestrel. Glad you spotted the little leak before an inconvenient time. I trust you spun the rad rubbers round anyway ;)

Cheers Miner. I assume you don't need them in sand land. What size are they 🤣🤣
I'll send the rad off tomorrow. Hopefully it is just that top tube. He did tell me that curved bike rads are almost impossible to re-core because replacement matrix's will come flat and they can't bend them without breaking them, so if it's a re-core, you may as well buy a new OE rad.

I did turn the rubbers back round but TBH even then they're taking very little weight and the tank is still floating around. I suspect they're not thick enough, which might explain why there's so many scuff marks elsewhere on the underside of the tank. I will look at improving that as well.
 

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Serviced my 350 XCf and changed the Stator for a trailtech uprated item. Great service from Clive at Trailtech UK. Faultless service.
 
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New rear dunplop on the ole 950SM. Apparently there could be a “shortage” of new tyres cos of a lack of carbon black (tyre ingredient) coming from that Russia, I read elsewhere. No problem in my very recent experience though….
 

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Mounted the new WRS screen, took the smoked touring. Slightly wider than the stock and 3 / 4cm higher. Very sturdy compared to the stock, 4mm thick, nice smoked that connects well with the headlight contour. Here in the low position.


Inviato dal mio NTH-NX9 utilizzando Tapatalk
Have you got a link for that screen?
 

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Oh yeah

Thi is the factory


Direct link product


Inviato dal mio NTH-NX9 utilizzando Tapatalk
 
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