[Ship]

would those settings be any use on an '06?

dunno matey, but for the cost of the bits its worth a go. All the research I did certainly pointed at the 38 idle jet being the best all round bet (mainly for allowing more fuel mix in at part throttle , thus helping prevent seizure [lots on usa site 'ktm talk' on this]) and the NECJ needle reference was quoted by lots of people as being the one to go for.

certainly cheaper than the JD kit which is £80.

 

[Ship]

That's interesting - thanks very much for sharing.

Do these settings take away any bogging off the bottom end?

yes. played on the bike today (after greasing up all the frame bearings; no grease on swing arm or steering stem from the factory!) and tried riding it like a trials bike ........ very slow, balancing on the spot, tight lock to lock figures of eight etc, then cracking it open ............ through the gears. coming to a stop. trying to make it stall ................ tickover is low, but it wouldnt stall - its like my gas gas.

lots of stuff on ktm talk about the benefits of a 38 jet; whilst it might be 'slightly' rich on this, it helps with getting fuel to the motor (+ oil of course) which has obvious benefits for downhill stuff/coasting.

its a learning curve riding it after years of 4ts though!

I might be paranoid, but the motor sounds very noisy to me - but youtube tells me that they are all like that.

 

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I was running with the below settings up to last week. Had crisp response, reasonable fuel consumption but still had a tiny bit of throttle bog down below, was sure it could be better so I am eager to try the NECJ setup. It's in the bike now, just need to get a chance to run it.

Old setup:
38 pilot
1.75 air screw
168 main
J needle 4 clip

New setup:
38 pilot
165 main
NECJ needle (suzuki rm 250) #3 clip
1.5 air screw

BTW - I have never had spooge coming out of mine either.

with that setup at the w/e, my bike used less petrol than my mates wr 450.

still a bit spoogey - about 1/2 inch worth out the pipe - but this is hopefully left over from the original setup. bike now has 6 hrs on it. will be talking to x-bikes to see if further tweaking is required; I am confident that the set up is ok - I just wanna check with the expert Chris.

 

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Yeah, although I run mine slightly different

N8RH needle clip 2
162 main
And 35 pilot

Although mines the 07 model. Av tried the 38 and found it a bit 'too' stuttery at small movement of the throttle.

Although I would love to know what the difference in my needle and the NECJ needle if anyone knows?

I don't get any spooge out the pipe what so ever and run 50:1 mix

the NECJ is sooooooooooo s m o o t h !

 

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Go and give it the beans mate and let us know if it's better!
Although I'm sure the newer bikes are meant to run with richer settings than a 2007 model?

Does anyone know or have a chart to put these needle in order (rich to lean) as these are the ones I have...

N8RF
N8RH
N8RW
N3CJ

Cheers

not sure of the order; have you googled?

 

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I have mate but no info really, can't work out if the lower the letter the richer/leaner the needle, the setup Iv dialed in tho feels awesome, it's just more curiosity than anything.

Iv got a feeling tho the the newer model bikes run better with 'richer' settings than a 07 bike. Ie if I used the same settings as you 14 men would be too rich.....?

I just found this

http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf

 

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Where did you guys buy the NECJ needle from?? Can you please provide a link or contact. My 250 pings a little at WOT, N8RJ needle, clip 3, using S3 Stars head, want to try the half clip richer needle to see if this will sort the pinging out?

G.

re pinging - have a read through linky i put up on post #20 (the one before yours)

 

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linky says:

When the main jet is Lean
the engine will experience detonation or "pinging". Exhaust note will be
of a higher, tinier type note. Engine will
over heat easy and can be down on horsepower. A
moderately lean main jet can cause
engine seizures. A severely lean main jet can cause the engine
to burn a piston (whole in top).

 

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now my bike has 10 hrs on it, the 38/165/NECJ-3# set up HAS CHANGED A little bit ?! it has become a little bit burbly on 1/8 ish part throttle (when in slow moving deep ruts, that sort of stuff) which is a bit annoying. Today I haver tried the 35 pilot and moving the clip to 2 + 4 - all of which made it worse, so I went back to 38/165/NECJ-3# with a new spark plug - not that I know what I am talking about, but its almost as if it wants to go richer on the pilot, say a 40 - does this sound at all feasible? the set up is spot on still aside from this part throttle thing that has appeared now the bike has some hours on it.

 

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from the stuff I have read (here/ktmtalk/dirtbikeworld/etc) there seems to be literally dozens of settings out there. ok, altitude and temp will all have a bearing, but as we are saying each bike is different. tried mine with the 35 and it makes that 0-1/8th throttle worse than the 38, or sort of extends the brief period of bad running, so my evolving 2t brain is telling me to try a 40 ........... so a 40 is in the post for a try out on friday when i have some shed-time. perhaps the 14's altered cdi (and head?) make it want more fuel? apart from this annoying blip its all good ........ didnt realise that the fueling would change a bit with more time on the motor. also playing about with springs and p.v settings. tried the red with p.v out flush - I put that back in the box after trying it - if i was of more sensitive disposition i might have hit the brown note running that ;-]

 

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Hi,

Ordered my RM needle today and looking forward to seeing the results. 15.20 at my local bike shop so well worth a try.

Alan.

not sure if you have already said Alan, but what do you have at the moment?

 

[Ship]

from the stuff I have read (here/ktmtalk/dirtbikeworld/etc) there seems to be literally dozens of settings out there. ok, altitude and temp will all have a bearing, but as we are saying each bike is different. tried mine with the 35 and it makes that 0-1/8th throttle worse than the 38, or sort of extends the brief period of bad running, so my evolving 2t brain is telling me to try a 40 ........... so a 40 is in the post for a try out on friday when i have some shed-time. perhaps the 14's altered cdi (and head?) make it want more fuel? apart from this annoying blip its all good ........ didnt realise that the fueling would change a bit with more time on the motor. also playing about with springs and p.v settings. tried the red with p.v out flush - I put that back in the box after trying it - if i was of more sensitive disposition i might have hit the brown note running that ;-]

bit of an update - tried the 40 and it ran worse. put back the 38 and it was much better; seems to be that getting more hrs on the bike and getting used to riding a 2t again is all helping. Tried a mates 2013 bike yesterday that is 'spot on' and mine was (imho) much better and I think that the most of that is down to the NECJ needle. I have also tried the J.D needles, blue and red on every clip setting (but they are not for the 2014 model year [which has different head/cdi etc]) and I can, hand-on-heart, say that the NECJ was much better. I have emailed J.D and told them what I have found and they say that they are working on a kit for the 2014 bikes .................. seems the NECJ is a better bet all round; I will be interested to learn what upgrade J.D will make to better this. For information, J.D recommends the use of 38 and 165 in low altitude situations (162 for higher).

 

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First ride out on my 2014 300 today. Used 9 litres in 45 miles, I ran out, Had to beg some more fuel from the guys I was with to get me to a petrol station. Wont cruise on a steady throttle on the road, it just constantly hunts and 4 stokes. Seemed responsive enough off road though.

with 38, 165 and the NECJ #3, I am using just a bit less than a mate on a WR 450 and can cruise ok on the road. you should have the jets in the plastic container (with the p.v springs) and the needle is £16.00.

forgot to say - premix is with ultimate and castrol power 1 2t fully synth oil at 50:1 (so, a leaner petrol mix than the recommended 60:1)

 

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Frogger, Semtex, please, the suspence is killing me ;-]

 

[Ship]

bit of an update.

going for some dyno time tomorrow to see if any improvements can be made and after my email/s to J.D, J.D himself is sending me some needles for evaluation for the 2014 bike.

interesting!

 

[Ship]

dyno time today confirmed that for my 2014 bike - 38, 165 and the NECJ #3 was SPOT ON for carb set up. fuel and torque curves were beautiful and chris (x-bikes) was happy with that set up. He advised that when it gets really cold that the needle could go a half clip richer (with a needle shim [although I recall tha there is a half clip rich needle available: BUNGIE said: NEDJ is also 1/2 a clip richer - just for reference purposes.])

The glitch that I have mentioned before, happens at 4,000 rpm, which chris thinks is the cdi advance changing at this point. we are going to investigate getting into the cdi and getting some mapping work done. Hopefully we can get this so it is switchable - just need to get some software sorted; watch this space.

The red spring, with adjuster fully wound out, gets a Massive increase in BHP at WOT. Almost 40bhp at rear wheel (with a knobbly on)

NOMNOM. :-]

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=nom nom nom

p.s - NO spooge.
p.p.s - X-Bikes are highly recommended for everything bike shaped.

 

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50:1 - 97 unleaded with castrol power 1 2t fully synth oil. clean air filter with putoline filter oil.

 

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Hi,

Ta for the replies guys but i think we have hijacked this thread. He is now home and managing very well considering and planning next year already on a 250 sxf. Great being young and fit and healing quickly.

Alan.

Good news. And dont even mention thread hijacking - the wellbeing of your lad is much much more important than some numpty twat (me) bleeting on about setting up a bloody 2t. best wishes.

 

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The manual runs the N4DJ needle with a 168 main and 35 pilot as the stock setting. It also uses the same needle with a 38 pilot so that's ok but it also only uses a 168 or 170 main with the N4DJ needle.

On the flip side it says to use the N4DK needles with the 165 main but with the 35 pilot.

So what effects needle choice most, main or pilot?




I suppose what I really want to know is there a chance that the bike will run like a complete bag of spanners or will I be ok all day tomorrow as it is?

The N84K is the restricted needle. the N4DJ is the one that all the dealers fit as pdi, the N4DK is slightly less bad because it is leaner. my bike just runs better on the 38 and the 165.

try the N4DK (say on 4) then if thats bad the the J on 3 (you can swop it out when one of your mateys needs a piss / *** / pie).

Order an NECJ!

Better than the ktm jets imo.