4k to 5k is gonna get older bike which could be great or fucked....

...which seems to apply to all used enduros.

Too easy to stop hours clocking, fit new bodywork, claim light lane use when its spent its life being thrashed mercilessly in boggy races etc.

But at least a 2t is cheaper to rebuild.

 

If you had around a grand spare you could make any older model completely refreshed. Me personally I’d go for Keihin fed bikes but a Keihin fits on all carbed bikes.

Shercos tend to be mega cheap secondhand but not bad bikes. It might even be worth seeing if you can find a new as possible Sherco, you might be surprised what you can get.

 

The heim joint wear has been happening for years, at least 10 - you just need to araldite a piece of aluninium to wear the shock flap rubs.

TPI seizures are exagerated and more down to poor warm up. The latest extreme map has introduced more 2t oil to combat concerns over oiling.

The mikuni is often swapped for a keihin.

The pre TPI starter is utterly crap and a high maintenance / cost system to keep operable

Usual issues re. Used enduro bikes applies.

 

Yamaha WR 450 £5,000 will get you a cracker 👍 for trail riding go four stroke.

 

17 ktm/ husqvarna bikes are mega.
the mikuni will either be a gud un and will run perfectly or a bad un in which case stick an older airstriker carb on it .

you can also get the XC and Tx cross country bikes much cheaper.

if you go sherco you'll get a lot of bike for the money.
betas are good too however they are the go to bike for the budget racer and its very hard to find one that's not been raced to death.

 

Thanks all for the replies, it's helped a lot already! As you guys have said, there's some right beat up enduro bikes out there, it's hard to find a good one.

So on the 17 bikes, a keihin 38 carb will fit straight on and once jetted correctly will run as good as any other? So with the updated starter, and the keihin carb the 17 bike is going to be a pretty solid pre TPI bike?!

Have also considered beta and sherco! Although it seems they don't hold their value as well.

 

Thanks all for the replies, it's helped a lot already! As you guys have said, there's some right beat up enduro bikes out there, it's hard to find a good one.

So on the 17 bikes, a keihin 38 carb will fit straight on and once jetted correctly will run as good as any other? So with the updated starter, and the keihin carb the 17 bike is going to be a pretty solid pre TPI bike?!

Thanks all for the replies, it's helped a lot already! As you guys have said, there's some right beat up enduro bikes out there, it's hard to find a good one.

So on the 17 bikes, a keihin 38 carb will fit straight on and once jetted correctly will run as good as any other? So with the updated starter, and the keihin carb the 17 bike is going to be a pretty solid pre TPI bike?!

Have also considered beta and sherco! Although it seems they don't hold their value as well.

That’s from new so with you’re budget you would effectively be taking advantage of that. If it’s a KTM you specifically want then it looks like the 17 will be your best bet, you don’t often see them for sale though compared to other years.

 

Finding a tidy 17 bike is not going to be easy I bought a 14 turned out to be a wreck but luckily I managed to ride it for 18 months & made £500 on it when I sold it so can’t complain. Only draw back on the 17 is if starter fucks up its engine out job so I am informed.

 

The pre tpi starter system is rubbish whatever you do to it, and ime the system rejects cheapo pattern parts, l had a 2014 300 for 350hrs and in that time l had 3 genuine starters, crownwheel and bendix (the 2015 "upgrade") numerous bushings and 2 or 3 7ah batteries ....... and that was with the wet and vent mod that kept the system free from drainhole dirt/water ingress and well lubed. It really was rubbish - a real challenge to live with.

Otherwise, once jetting is sorted, the engine is generally tough and reliable if you drop in a new piston every 100hrs or so and use a decent 2t oil - mine was on maxima 927 for most if the time l had it.

Saying that, at around 350 hrs it started detonating and nothing could fix it (then some xunt nicked it, so it hopefully went pop)

 

If you go the Keihin route then you can use the 38 or 36mm carb on any bike.

The Beta/Sherco secondhand values are less as they cost less to start with but they are no lesser bike in my experience of them. KTM did a brilliant marketing job for a long time which means for many it has to be Austrian even on secondhand bikes. This is another reason Austrian bikes can be more pricey. Only you can decide if they are actually any better or not as there’s so many factors involved.

 

17 was the first to have a decent starter, it's the same starter as the TPI bikes.
As others have said you'll either get a good carb or a bad one, although i bet quite a few of those were down to people not knowing how to jet a carb (with is a LOT of people)

 

Thanks to everyone for the help. Finding it so accurate all the advice given, finding a good one of these at that money is going to be hard. Looks like I maybe highering the budget as per haha.

So, are the early TPI bikes ones to avoid? (17/18)

I've done a lot of research and it seems if you treat the you bikes with mechanical sympathy when cold, check the oil pump output they are fairly reliable?

I'm only a slow novice rider anyway so a TPI would get an easy time.

So 17/18/19 TPI yes or no?

Thanks

 

Thanks to everyone for the help. Finding it so accurate all the advice given

Accuracy and correctness is exactly what this forum is known for. You’re in safe hands.

 

To the best of my knowledge, the early issues were related to oil tanks splitting, and cold seizures because of not using a different (correct) warm up procedure - map updates have added more oil as well. The ccps is a reported issue, but l dont know of anyone that has had a problem, and if youtube is anything to go buy, a good clean up and silicone grease of the 0 ring will help. The lower LHS rad pipe needs protection / powervalve cover smoothing to prevent damage, a tps cover and a aluminium fuel pipe union. Metal fuel quick connect as well. Other than that its just the shitty xplor.

 

I think a lot of the early pump failures was due to getting dirt in the oil tank.... that then got into the pump and it failed.
I also think they need more warming up due to less oil
The later bikes had a filter fitted between the tank and pump.
If i got a TPI i'd get a TSP head/ecu kit.

 

Ah, yes - l had forgotten about the early pumps / no filter.

Filter came on 2020's.

Its also good practice to clean well around 2t oil tank cap so you avoid getting dirt in there. A few people make the 3d printed oil cap collars now which stop crap accumulating under edge of cap (it also better secures cap) you can also get a gauze liner that yoy put into top of tank opening. A filled 2t tank will do 4-5 tanks of petrol, so you are filling up at home and can keep it all clean.