[Ship]

The main thing is to be really clean. I used alcohol to clean the rim, then sealed each spoke end with marine grade silicone. Let that go off for 24 hrs, gently warm rim with a hair dryer then slowly apply tape, pressing into place. The tape is like nothing else (l can only compare it to self adhesive acoustic sheet for automotive use) in terms of adhesion. I did mine about 4yrs ago, maybe longer. Lots of people will say its a bodge, but it is tried and tested. As l said, lots of info on line - Adventure rider in the states had a load of info amongst others.

Chain tension - l would run what you should be running for offroad, but bear in mind that the side of the tyre will tend to get a bit of chain whip, but dont worry about it too much.

Front gork guards - not sure if you asked, but full wrap round gork guards will foul on the wider wheel set up, so either chop accordingly or easier still get some open / blade type guards.

 

[Ship]

Sealant - sikaflex or tigerseal for spoke ends would be as good as the marine stuff.

 

[NORTE23]

Great info pal thanks. My fork guards aren’t wrap arounds anyway & have a designed in type of cut out so I had no worries there. Got the sprockets & chain done & found the issue with brake disc bolt fouling on the caliper carrier, turns out the spacers are labelled wrong. Right is labelled left & left labelled right, swapped them round & all fits nice. I’m in work now in the process of fabricating a small part to reduce chain run on the tyre. If it works I will post pics & the CAD drawings I did for it so others can replicate. Can’t wait to ride it now. Again thanks for the info. If I get any punctures I will go down that route.

 

[Ship]

I think l mentioned - there was a ktm part / part made pecgaz on here - that was a rearward continuation of the upper chain slider with a small chain retaining guard ...... very neat and in the matching material. You could search on here but images are probably lost because of photobucket being a bunch of. @KevInYorks might have a pic of one ..... interested to see what you come up with.

 

[KevInYorks]

It actually needs to be more to the left if your looking from behind it for the bolts to clear. I’m in work tonight so I’ll get some M6 low profile bolts.

Sorry, I was thinking it was the front wheel.

 

[NORTE23]

That’s all sorted now & in line perfectly. Can’t get this WS setting to work though now. Disconnected the 3 wire plug, get WS to flash but when I press + it does nothing. Then I got the Rb 2206 battery fault so I went & got a new battery thinking it was that, replaced it but guess what…..yeah still doesn’t work.

 

[KevInYorks]

Perhaps the button is faulty. Use the 4 pin connector instead.

 

[NORTE23]

Perhaps the button is faulty. Use the 4 pin connector instead.

Elaborate please

 

[KevInYorks]

There is a 4 pin connector wired to the speedo for remote 3 button handlebar switch. I think yellow is common (or green) so run a wire from the common and tap it on the others to effectively scroll etc through the menu to set WS

 

[NORTE23]

Haha guess what happened…………………was out riding yesterday, had done around 80 miles with regular smoke breaks. On the way home was sat at 50mph minding my own business when the engine suddenly without any warning what so ever made a loud crackling noise then a clunk & a pop & cut out. Got recovered home & left it overnight with out doing anything. Today I took the oil fill plug out & found bits everywhere inside. Looks & feels like metal particles. Now is it worth stripping & repairing or not. Do I try to find another motor. I’m presuming the repair bill will be over £1k.

 

[KevInYorks]

Ooops! Needs taking apart to see what's amiss.

 

[Ship]

Check the availability of engine parts for that era of motor (XC4). KTM have been known to make parts obsolete after 10 years .......

 

[NORTE23]

Check the availability of engine parts for that era of motor (XC4). KTM have been known to make parts obsolete after 10 years .......

Oh great. Yeah will do. What’s it worth in current condition any ideas. Might just be easier to get rid & get another.

 

[Ship]

Its going to be worth what someone wants to pay! You could break it, but that is time consuming. Best bet would be to advertise it as is and test the market.

 

[NORTE23]

Its going to be worth what someone wants to pay! You could break it, but that is time consuming. Best bet would be to advertise it as is and test the market.

Ok I’ll throw it on the bay of E then. What sort of starting price do you think

 

[Ship]

Just with the dirt wheels (assuming you will keep 17's for another bike)? 1500 to get ball rolling.

 

[NORTE23]

Just with the dirt wheels (assuming you will keep 17's for another bike)? 1500 to get ball rolling.

Ok cool. Yeah 17’s not for sale.

 

[KevInYorks]

Just with the dirt wheels (assuming you will keep 17's for another bike)? 1500 to get ball rolling.

I think your a bit off at £1500 for a bike with chunks of metal in the oil. Could possibly make that by breaking it, but not worth that as a complete non runner. Maybe if it was an 05-07 it would get there if tidy

 

[NORTE23]

Well I got the motor out & broke it down. Looks like the bits weren’t metal. None magnetic. The chain guide is decimated & all the bits are from that. Haven’t found anything else destroyed as yet.

 

[KevInYorks]

Is the short screen full of bits?