Vehicle Wiring Products is a good place to go for things like wire, heat shrink, spiral wrap, this is the sort of stuff you will need to sort the loom out. It takes hours and hours to fix the mess that KTM made of the loom. It's good to see that they have kept their standards consistent moving forward from my 2013 bike. (Bad standards!)

 

I completely rebuilt my XR650R loom from the ground up. It was a learning experience for me and not my strongest skill for sure. I did quickly learn: don't ever use electrical tape, tape to bind wires is very different. Don't use that corrugated type plastic conduit, it's shite on bikes. Buy a proper auto-stripper and specific crimper that tucks the legs of the crimp into the wires, professional life. Using different coloured wires is very important, even if they are all subsequently hidden in a type of conduit or bound. For the latter I got a massive loom off an old Blackbird from a wrecker and reused the wires - old school Honda quality.

 

I agree, that corrugated wrap is horrible, spiral wrap is something different and works well. Even then I would only use it when I want to give the wires better protection like around the headstock, in other areas where they are not subject to wear then black heat shrink works well.

 

sidecarbod Thanks for swift reply.
Would 1mm cable be sufficiant fixing flexi part of loom? it looks like original cables are less than 1mm.
Also is soldering a good practice considering future movement? I have zero experience on automotive wiring and dont want to make it worse that manufacturer

 

Certainly not built to the same standards as older Japanese bikes...all for the sake of saving £20 on a 10k bike.

I added a little bit more slack in that area and wrapped in couple of layers of electrical tape.
The only issue I had in 5 years is where the starter cable plugs into the main loom, one of the pins completely disappeared.
I certainly did not have that amount of wear on the white label and frame paint. Try and set up the loom slack with the bars pointing left, then when turning right the loom should make a bigger radius circle instead of going up and down. (not sure how the explain this)
It is a good practice to remove fairings, fuel tank, and other items to access connectors, once or twice a year and give them a good clean and a splash of dielectric grease or ACF. (not at ECU or sensitive parts)

 

ACF50 on all of your connections will help. Depending on how much you ride. Clean them all and reapply ACF50 again periodically helps

I had to buy a new main wiring harness on my bike as it hot so bad after 6 years. Also had to solder broken wires and retape loom up a number of times. They are all like that. Like everything. The wiring loom requires servicing. It’s not fit and forget 🙂

I don’t know what the fuse holder on your bike is like but I took the fuse covers off and the fuses don’t get half as corroded up now. My fuse cover used to catch and hold water. I was thinking about putting them back on but with a hole on the end of them to let the water run out.

I also think a lot of us use protective sprays and cleaners on our bikes and ride in all weathers. I think all of this just degrades the plastic. It is what it is

 

Re purposing the older Honda Blackbird loom is genius! There’s loads of reasons manufacturers have gone to cheap and skinny wires now. Computer design has removed the “I’ll use this to be sure” element of design and construction. Weight and cost savings. Environmental impact reduction. The list goes on.

All what we know about 12v systems is also changing. 48v systems are now becoming the way ahead. It means the system can have 85% less mass in it. I’m guessing this is also something that works better again for EVs. I’m no nothing about electrics but 48v is the way things are going.

 

I sheathed my loom there, with ribbed (corrugated) plastic conduit to give it an exoskeleton and thus protect it from the constant flexing
Works very well and takes 5 mins to fit

 

I did exactly the same on a mates Husky about 3 years ago, still going strong

 

I generally solder connections and heat shrink them, if I’m worried about corrosion il smear them in dialectic grease before heat shrinking

 

Thank you all for tips and info.
Update and continiuos quest:
After disasembly of front fairings , seat and fuel tank, I managed to get access tobroken part of loom.
Step one is try to find all breakages and temporary fix them to know all is functioning, before wiring is cut to make extensions.
Orange speedo back light and speedo indicatos are back on line. Carying on ...

 

Does enyone know where yellow cable belongs? In seems comming out of spark plug wirings

 

Still curious what is the reason of yellow cable? Can it be that cable of sparkplug is damaged and leaks sparks so this genius engineering was applied?

 

Solder it to the frame to stop it moving about….









I’ll get my coat😂

 

The yellow cable has been wrapped around the HT lead because someone in the past has fitted an electronic rev counter to the bike, each time the plug fires a small voltage is induced in the yellow wire and the rev counter uses this to work out the engine revs.

 

Here is a good tip for everyone that some might find of interest.

I have always had trouble with my horn working. To the extent of buying a new horn which promptly did the same. And it is caused by the spade connections making good contact.

Basically, cut a long story short I soldered some wires directly to the horn then connected those wires to the horn wires into one end of a chocky block Aso both cables terminated under both screws. I covered the chocky block in some tape to insulate the wires

The horn has never stopped working now. And I can still remove the horn and leave the horn wires isolated in the chocky block so the live does not touch the frame and earth out.

Also I have had the live spade connector vibrate loose off the horn and earth out popping the fuse. Very little chance of that happening now

Just something I found that worked for me. Hope that helps

 

After two long days waiting for delivery from 'Vehicle Wiring Products', I sat in front of bike for good half an hour before start
here is my step by step:
after finding all faults in cables and making temporary connections I have made plan of works an ordered material, and equipment required.
stripped off protective sleeving to expose cables
Marked same duplicated color coded cables on both ends to know which one is witch.
MADE A CUT

attached helping hands to fork
twist connected extension cable of same color,( I have extended cables by 30cm)
marked each new repeated color cables on other end
soldered connections
applied ACF-50 on exposed conductor
applied heat shrink sleeve

after all top ends where soldered and insulated, applied silicone grease on top cables
cut 19mm heat shrink to length, so it would cover most of exposed cables from speedo to engine but not full way as it would not fit full length.
after, on the heat shrink I have applied 20mm woven sleeve to cover length from speedo to about 5cm pass radiator
on bottom end of loom (going to engine) i applied silicone grease and slid 19mm Adhesive heat shrink

applied head shrink on every lower part cable connection before soldering
applied acf-50 to every conductor before heat shrinking
applied silicon grease on cables
slid top 19mm heat shrink sleeve to cover exposed cables from top, than slid 19 mm adhesive heat shrink from bottom on top of top one and slightly heated to mold both together.
than slid woven sleeve on top.

after squeezing loom back in to bracket next to radiator, I have rolled 6mm Spiral binding for mechanical protection (from bracket to speedo)
Spent around 13 hours all together.
material cost around £100
It was long reaserch journey, also getting basic skills in soldering techniques took few hours of practice. Many thanx to forum members which guided me to corect path.
Now cannot wait for a play day and it is only Monday

 

Zero chance of my bike working after my attempt I assure you that.