According to the oberon website it does

 

Worth checking with them. When I bought one for my 1190, year before last, they specified that it was to installed with the mounting plate, available separately. Same with the 1290 SDR. The one I bought back along for my SMT did not require a mounting plate. Those plates have disappeared from their website. Maybe they have changed the design? In which case you may have an older one.

 

I have a mounting plate on mine, it was needed for the 950.

 

Think you can use the original spacer OR the ally mounting plate. I got the ally plate as it makes it more rigid for better action. Only got mine sept last year so they must still do them

 

thanks for the input.

 

Fitted my Oberion last month, spacers are available in different colours as well so got gold.

Clutch action is better now.

 

What’s makes the Oberon clutch slave , better than stock??


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http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/KTM_Clutch_Slave_Cylinders_KCSC.html

 

And they don't leak and you can reverse bleed them easily.

 

Like jewellery [emoji41]

 

And you can have them in orange, not grey. We all know who buys grey.

 

And you can have them in orange,

Pure genius

 

Oberon was a hetero-fairy though, married to Titania. Unless Titania was a ladyboy. This is quite possible. Shakespeare's text is inconclusive on the matter but we must bear in mind he was probably a bit Titania himself.

 

What about URANUS IV

 

I was just wondering,as I’ve never had a problem with mine, it seems to work well!


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If you can select neutral reliably, then I'd leave well alone. If you find yourself prodding about, selecting neutral from 2nd or as you roll to a stop. Then just spend the £'s. They truly are a performance enhancing part. You'll forget it's on there in no time.

 

There is also a known problem with some master cylinders on the SDR. There is a repair kit and if your lever is losing pressure without any apparent leaks down by the slave it is quite likely the MC. I wasn't aware of this. I've had gradual spongy lever syndrome on mine since I bought it. Crescent changed the slave O ring, then the slave and kept bleeding it but couldn't cure it.

Premier since told me that if a change of slave doesn't cure it, it's almost certainly the MC. I'm quite pissed off about it because Crescent must have known this yet they fucked about with the slave and bleeding the system for months until the bike was out of warranty. They should have fitted the repair kit when the second slave didn't fix it. And now they've quit KTM so I've got no redress.

 

Stick it on an ABBA stand start the Bike Pull clutch put it in gear rear wheel should be Stationary release Clutch rear wheel moves pull clutch rear wheel stops if this Does'nt happen on your bike than there is a problem with clutch system
Check this as well

 

Has anyone changed the clutch oil jet to a 0.5 as I've read it stops the juddering whilst using the clutch ie setting off

 

I’ve been out on the sdr a few times recently in the nice weather and I’ve had a little trouble finding neutral, so I thought I’d just get one. My fault for jinxing it and saying mine was fine!
Before I start fitting the Oberon, is there any common mistake when fitting that I should look out for?
Any tips?
Thanks lads.

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Did you get the back plate? Def recommended.

Advice : follow the instructions in the kit which are good. Don't lose the ball bearing

 

I just ordered the slave, but I’ve seen there’s a back plate is it needed?


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Do the instructions say to gravity bleed? Can't remember. If so it's much easier and quicker to reverse bleed.

 

I’ve not opened it yet been to busy today, but I think I’ll try reverse bleed, got syringe just need some tube 6mm I think!


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Defo get the Oberon back plate and from my experience submerge the whole thing in quality fluid and manually activate the piston so you have all the air out of it. When you’ve done this fit the Oberon to your bike and hay presto it’ll be spot on.

If you try and bleed an un-purged unit you are going to struggle big time.

 

Fitted one dry to my 1190 and reverse bled it in about one minute. Reverse bleeding must be expelling air from the piston upwards and out of the reservoir. Self-purging in effect. One thing I do do is pump the lever against a closed bleed nipple and then before I finish the bleeding because there always seems to be some air bubbles clinging to the M/C piston and that flushes them out.

 

Gona try and fit the Oberon tomorrow if I get time. Will this 60ml siringe be big enough to reverse bleed?
Also is the best method prime the Oberon in new fluid first so it’s ready then quickly disconnect the stock slave and swap the parts over? Or just take the line off stock and let it drain then build it all up!

IMG]https:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/3b08a4c6a53b8189126adf69a702bdcc.jpg[/IMG]


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Fitted mine following the instructions supplied in about 30 minutes, worked a treat from the off.

 

60 ml syringe is fine and no need to prime. Fit it dry and fill from below.
Obviously the syringe and line need to be completely free of air bubbles and keep the line short.


Going back to Fozzy the OP, if you mean to take the Oberon off the 950 and use it for the SDR, bear in mind that the SDR uses Dot 4 fluid and the 950 uses mineral oil. They may be the same design I don't know whether the seals in the 950 slave is compatible with Dot 4 fluid. If you haven't done it already, best to check with Oberon.

 

Looking on Oberons website they say that their slave cylinder is happy with either the mineral oil OR the brake fluid but the master cylinders will only work with whichever they started with, so pretty straightforward.

 

Thanks for that Knapper, but I just left it on there. Decided that when I do fit the Oberon, it will be a black one.